296 SIKKIM HIMALAYA. Chap. XIII. 



to walk up and down slippery slopes, amongst boulders of 

 rock, heavy forest, and foaming torrents ; but I was little 

 aware of what these beasts could accomplish. The Tartar 

 saddle was imported from Tibet, and certainly a curiosity ; 

 once — but a long time ago — it must have been very hand- 

 some; it was high -peaked, covered with shagreen and silvered 

 ornaments, wretchedly girthed, and with great stirrups 

 attached to short leathers. The bridle and head-gear were 

 much too complicated for description ; there were good 

 leather, raw hide, hair-rope, and scarlet worsted all brought 

 into use ; the bit was the ordinary Asiatic one, jointed, 

 and with two rings. I mounted on one side, and at once 

 rolled over, saddle and all, to the other ; the pony standing 

 quite still. I preferred walking ; but Dr. Campbell had 

 begged of me to use the pony, as the Dewan had procured 

 and sent it at great trouble : I, however, had it led till I 

 was close to Bhomsong, when I was hoisted into the 

 saddle and balanced on it, with my toes in the stirrups 

 and my knees up to my breast ; twice, on the steep 

 descent to the river, my saddle and I were thrown on the 

 pony's neck ; in these awkward emergencies I was assisted 

 by a man on each side, who supported my weight on my 

 elbows : they seemed well accustomed to easing mounted 

 ponies down hill without giving the rider the trouble of 

 dismounting. Thus I entered Dr. Campbell's camp at 

 Bhomsong, to the pride and delight of my attendants ; and 

 received a hearty welcome from my old friend, who covered 

 me with congratulations on the successful issue of a 

 journey which, at this season, and under such difficulties 

 and discouragements, he had hardly thought feasible. 



Dr. Campbell's tent was pitched in an orange-grove, 

 occupying a flat on the west bank of the Teesta, close to a 

 small enclosure" of pine-apples, with a pomegranate tree in 



