Dec. 1848. AUDIENCE WITH RAJAH. 301 



and confusedly arranged in layers : the strike was north- 

 west, and dip north-east from 60° to 70°. 



Messengers from the Dewan overtook us at the river to 

 announce that the Rajah was prepared and waiting to give 

 us a reception ; so we returned, and I borrowed a coat 

 from Dr. Campbell instead of my tattered shooting-jacket ; 

 and we crossed the river on the bamboo-raft. As it is the 

 custom on these occasions to exchange presents, I was 

 officially supplied with some red cloth and beads : these, as 

 well as Dr. Campbell's present, should only have been 

 delivered during or after the audience ; but our wily friend 

 the Dewan here played us a very shabby trick ; for he 

 managed that our presents should be stealthily brought in 

 before our appearance, thus giving to the by-standers the 

 impression of our being tributaries to his Highness ! 



The audience chamber was a mere roofed shed of neat 

 bamboo wattle, about twenty feet long : two Bhoteeas in 

 scarlet jackets, and with bows in their hands, stood on 

 each side of the door, and our own chairs were carried 

 before us for our accommodation. Within was a square 

 wicker throne, six feet high, covered with purple silk, 

 brocaded with dragons in white and gold, and overhung 

 by a canopy of tattered blue silk, with which material part 

 of the walls also was covered. An oblong box (containing 

 papers) with gilded dragons on it, was placed on the stage or 

 throne, and behind it was perched cross-legged, an odd, 

 black, insignificant looking old man, with twinkling upturned 

 eyes : he was swathed in yellow silk, and wore on his head 

 a pink silk hat with a flat broad crown, from all sides of 

 which hung floss silk. This was the Rajah, a genuine 

 Tibetan, about seventy years old. On some steps close by, 

 and ranged down the apartment, were his relations, all in 

 brocaded silk robes reaching from the throat to the ground, 



