302 SIKKIM HIMALAYA. Chap. XIII. 



and girded about the waist ; and wearing caps similar to 

 that of the Rajah. Kajees, counsellors, and shaven mitred 

 Lamas were there, to the number of twenty, all planted 

 with their backs to the wall, mute and motionless as 

 statues. A few spectators were huddled together at the 

 lower end of the room, and a monk waved about an incense 

 pot containing burning juniper and other odoriferous 

 plants. Altogether the scene was solemn and impressive : 

 as Campbell well expressed it, the genius of Lamaism 

 reigned supreme. 



We saluted, but received no complimentary return ; our 

 chairs were then placed, and we seated ourselves, when the 

 Dewan came in, clad in a superb purple silk robe, worked 

 with circular gold figures, and formally presented us. The 

 Dewan then stood ; and as the Rajah did not understand 

 Hincloostanee, our conversation was carried on through the 

 medium of a little bare-headed rosy-cheeked Lama, named 

 " Tchebu," clad in a scarlet gown, who acted as interpreter. 

 The conversation was short and constrained : Tchebu was 

 known as a devoted servant of the Rajah and of the heir 

 apparent ; and in common with all the Lamas he hates the 

 Dewan, and desires a friendly intercourse between Sikkim 

 and Dorjiling. He is, further, the only servant of the 

 Rajah capable of conversing both in Hindoo and Tibetan, 

 and the uneasy distrustful look of the Dewan, who under- 

 stands the latter language only, was very evident. He was 

 as anxious to hurry over the interview, as Dr. Campbell and 

 Tchebu were to protract it ; it was clear, therefore, that 

 nothing satisfactory could be done under such auspices. 



As a signal for departure white silk scarfs were thrown 

 over our shoulders, according to the established custom 

 in Tibet, Sikkim, and Bhotan \ and presents were made 

 to us of China silks, bricks of tea, woollen cloths, 



