364 SIKKIM HIMALAYA. Chap. XVI. 



colouring the waters red, and sedges. Along the banks were 

 bushes of 'Rhododendron barbatum nndBerberis insignis* but 

 the mass of the vegetation was similar to that of Dorjiling. 



We crossed the marsh to the edge of the lake by a rude 

 paved way of decaying logs, through which we often plunged 

 up to our knees. The Lama had come provided with a 

 piece of bark, shaped like a boat, some juniper incense and 

 a match-box, with which he made a fire, and put it in 

 the boat, which he then launched on the lake as a 

 votive offering to the presiding deity. It was a dead calm, 

 but the impetus he gave to the bark shot it far across the 

 lake, whose surface was soon covered with a thick cloud of 

 white smoke. Taking a rupee from me, the priest then waved 

 his arm aloft, and pretended to throw the money into the 

 water, singing snatches of prayers in Tibetan, and at times 

 shrieking at the top of his voice to the Dryad who claims 

 these woods and waters as his own. There was neither 

 bird, beast, nor insect to be seen, and the scenery was as 

 impressive to me, as the effect of the simple service was 

 upon my people, who prayed with redoubled fervour, and 

 hung more rags on the bushes. 



I need hardly say that this invocation of the gods of the 

 woods and waters forms no part of Lama worship ; but the 

 Lepchas are but half Boodhists ; in their hearts they dread 

 the demons of the grove, the lake, the snowy mountain 

 and the torrent, and the crafty Lama takes advantage of 

 this, modifies his practices to suit their requirements, and is 

 content with the formal recognition of the spiritual supre- 

 macy of the church. This is most remarkably shown in 

 their acknowledgment of the day on which offerings had 

 been made from time immemorial by the pagan Lepchas to 



* This magnificent new species has not been introduced into England ; it forms a 

 large bush, with deep-green leaves seven inches long, and bunches of yellow flowers. 



