3446 Visit to Teneriffe, 



3 o'clock we reached a cluster of three great rocks indicating l'Estan- 

 cia de los Ingleses, or the " resting-place of the English." Here we 

 were to halt for part of the night. Under the sides of these rocks are 

 various hollows, which serve as sleeping-places and stables ; one of 

 these, protected by a low wall of loose stones, we chose for our bed- 

 room. A large fire of retama bushes was speedily kindled, hot tea 

 and coffee were prepared, and the horses had large quantities of ice 

 given them as a substitute for water. 



Shortly after sunset, and while the whole of the island at our feet 

 was rendered indistinct by the approaching darkness, the gigantic sha- 

 dow of the Peak thrown upon the clouds extending far above the 

 eastern horizon, formed one of the most imposing sights 1 ever wit- 

 nessed — one more like a spectral illusion than a natural phenomenon. 

 Rolling ourselves up in our blankets, and taking up positions with 

 our feet towards the fire, we gradually dropped off to sleep. 



At 2, p. M., we were aroused, and soon afterwards started by star- 

 light to complete the ascent. The horses, one of which had died 

 during the night, remained at the Estancia, and the chief guide alone 

 accompanied us, having previously furnished each with a long staff. 

 At first a winding path led up a steep slope of loose pumice and frag- 

 ments of rock ; to this succeeded long ridges of black lava, the inter- 

 vals between which were filled with blocks of the same firmly wedged 

 together. In this wild region so great is the sameness of appearance 

 that the guide frequently missed his way. After numerous halts, the 

 whole party began to complain of fatigue and sickness of stomach in 

 various degrees, the latter partly owing to the rarefaction of the air. 

 We were in hopes of reaching the summit before sun-rise, but the ex- 

 haustion of one very corpulent member of the party detained the rest 

 too long for that ; still it was a noble sight to see the upper limb of 

 this glorious luminary rising as with a sudden start : the summit of 

 the Peak was bathed in a flood of light, while the rest of the island lay 

 in deep shade. 



Small patches of snow and ice appeared at intervals, and the breeze 

 which blew strongly all the morning kept us quite cool. At length 

 the last shoulder of the mountain was passed. Near the foot of the 

 cone was a small field of snow, its frozen surface covered with needle- 

 like projections, and close by steam at a temperature of 130° issued 

 from an aperture in a rock, the thermometer standing at 31° outside. 

 Even here animal life had not ceased, as a Colias like Edusa flew past. 



The summit of Teneriffe (the "sugar-loaf" of the English, the "pi- 

 ton " of the Spaniards) forms a nearly perfect cone, which although 



