*The Persian Travels Book L 



C H A P. V. 



A Continuation of the Conftantinopolitan %pad from Tauris to 

 Ifpahan , through Ardevil and Casbin. 



^Rom Taurus to Ifpahan the Caravan makes it generally twenty-four days 

 journey. 



The firft day you crofs over dry Mountains , and four Leagues fron 

 Tauru you meet with one of the faircft Inns in Pcrfia. This Inn Sha-Sefi 

 caus'd to be built} it is very convenient, and large enough to lodge a hundred 

 perions with their Horles. Over all "Perfia, cf'pecially from Tauru to Iftahan, 

 and from thence to Ormui , you meet every day with Inns at an equal diftance. 



The next day you defcend a Mountain, in very rugged and narrow way. At 

 the foot of this Mountain there are two ways for the Merchants to choofe that will 

 go to Iftahan. They that will go the ordinary road and the direct way through 

 Kom and Kachan , leave a Lake upon the left hand that parts the two Roads ; and 

 they that will go through Ar devil and Gtjbitt , two other good Cities , leave the Lake 

 upon the right hand , and coaft along by the fide of the Mountain. From Tauris 

 to Ardcvil it is not above a dozen Leagues \ and having pafs'd the Lake, the Country 

 is very good : Which is the Road I intend to defcrlbe firft. 



Ardcvil being at fo (mall a diftance from Tauru, lyesalmoft in the fame Degrees 

 and Minutes of Longitude and Latitude. This City is famous , as well for being 

 the firft Market of Silks that come from Guilan , from which it is not far off: as alio 

 for the Scpulcher of Sha-Sefi , the firft of that Name , King of Perfia. The 'avenues 

 to it are very plcafant , being as it were Alleys of great Trees, which are call'd 

 Tchinar, planted in a ftreight line , at a due diftance. It is of a moderate bignefs, 

 and icated in a lovely opening of the Mountains. The next to the Citv, which is 

 call'd Sevalan, is the higheft in all Media. The Houfes of Ardcvil are built of 

 Earth, as are moft of the Houfes in the Cities of Perfia: but the Streets arc very 

 uneven , dirty , and narrow. There is but one which is handfom , at the end 

 whereof is built the Armenian Church. A little River runs through the middle of 

 the City, which defcending from the neighbouring Mountains runs from Eaft to 

 Weft. It is by Incluftry brought into many Cutts to water the Gardens , and in 

 many places there arc very fair Trees planted, which arc very delightful to the Sight 

 The Meydan or Market-place is a very great one ^ more long than round 5 where (lands 

 a very fine Inn, upon one fide, which the Kan caus'd to lie built. Thcrcarelevcr.il 

 others in ieveral parts of the City, which have the Prbipeft overfcveral lovely Gar. 

 dens, efpecially that which belongs to the King-, to which you go through a long 

 and ftately Walk of four rows of Trees , at the end whereof ftands a large Gate 

 that gives you entrance. Though the Country about Ar devil be proper to bear 

 Vines , yet there are none thereabouts \ nor is there any Wine made till about four 

 or five Leagues from the City. The Armenians that dwell in the City are very well 

 ftor'd with if, though there be no place in all Pcrfia, where there is lo much 

 Caution to be us'd , either as to the Importing it, or the Drinking it^ both which 

 muft be done very privately: Which proceeds from the Mahometan Superftition ; 

 the Perfians having lb peculiar a Veneration for that place , that they believe it a 

 Sin to iuffer Wine to be publickly drank therein. 



The People come in Pilgrimage from all parts of Perfia to the Sepucher of Sba- 

 Sefi; which together with the vaft Trade of Silk , makes Ardcvil one of the mod 

 confiderable Cities of all Perfia. There arc feveral other Buildings added to the 

 Mefquee wherein he lyes interr'd-, the Entry whereof races the Meydan, to which 

 it is joyn'd upon the South-fide with a large Portal. The Gate is chain'd with 

 Chains faftcn'd a-crois with great Rings ; which if any Criminal Offender can but 

 touch, and enter into the firft Court, he is fafe •, for no perfon can apprehend him. 

 This is a large Court, yet more in length than breadth , without the Wall whereof 

 that looks upon the Market-place, ievera] Shops are built lor Merchants and Traclel- 

 men. 



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