Chap. VI L of Monfieur Ta vernier. 35 



unlike that of Smyrna, at the foot whereof runs a Rivulet, after it has made a 

 thouiand Madders in the Meadows. The City feems to have been very large , for 

 you may difcern upon the top of the Gates the compafs of the Walls, with ieveral 

 iquare towers , fome of which are (till {landing : and there is one very remarkable, 

 having two Clumbers in it , one of which is a very fair one , the Walls and Pave- 

 ment whereof arc Marble. 



The famous Temple of 'Diana flood at the bottom of the Hill , near one of the 

 Gatesof the City. There remains nothing of it at.prefentbut the great Portal, which 

 is entire. The Vaults of the Arches under ground (land to this day, and are very large, 

 but all full of naftinefs. We went in with Lanthorns^ and though you mud creep to 

 get in, by reafon that the Wind has almoft ftopt up the Hole, by gathering the 

 Duft about it, yet when you are in, you may go upright-, for the Arches are 

 high and fair , and little the worfc. Near the Gate lye four or five Columns upon 

 the Ground , and near to that a Fountain , ten Foot in Diameter , and two deep. 

 The People of the Country report, that it was the Fountain wherein St. John 

 Baptiz'd the Chriftians. For my part, as I have fcen in the Indies ieveral Pagods and 

 Edifices much more beautiful than ever the Temple of Ephefm could be} 1 believe 

 it rather to have been a Bafin wherein the People put their Offerings, of which 

 there are feveral luch that belong to the Indian Pagods. The Greeks and Armc- 

 menims , but above all the Franks , when they go to Epbefa always endeavour to 

 break off fome piece of that Bafin , to carry it away with 'em as a Relick : but the 

 Stone is fo hard , that they can break off but very little at a time. 



Not far from the Temple appears another Gate of the City, over which there 

 lyes a great Stone feven or eight Foot fquare, with an embofs'd Figure of ^Curtius 

 tnat Famous Roman , who threw himfelf , Horfe and Arms into the gaping Earth, 

 for the good of his Country. Manv Merchants have offer'd Money for liberty to 

 carry it awav, but cannot obtain leave. About five hundred Paces from Ephcfas 

 is the Grotto which they call the Seven Sleepers, at the bottom of the fame Hill where 

 the City was built. 



From Ephefm we went to Scalanova , which is not above two Leagues off. By 

 that time you come half the way, the little River that runs by Epbcfus falls into the 

 Sea •, in the mouth whereof there are always a great number of Greeks Barks fifhina 

 for Sturgeon. Of the Spawn of this Fifh they make Cave are , and drive a grea^ 

 Trade in it in thofc Parts: then they take themoft delicate and fmalleft Entrails of 

 that Fifh, which they fill with the fame Spawn , of which they make a kind of a flat 

 Pudding , as long as a Bisket, which they call Botargo. This they dry in the Smoak, 

 and cut it afterwards in fiices to eat. Upon this and the Cuttle-fifh the Greek* 

 generally feed during their Lent, which is very aufterc. 



Scalasova is a Port of which I have already fpoken , and thither we came by 

 feyen a Clock in the Evening •, where the Governour of the Place, more civil than 

 ufually the Turks are accuftom'd to be , made us very wclcom. 



In the Evening one of our Janizaries had quarrcPd with one of our Servants, 

 who thereupon had beaten him*, and therefore he complain'd to the Fellow's Ma- 

 tter, who not giving him that fatisfaftion which he defir'd , thereupon the Tm\ 

 ftudy'd to be reveng'd upon the whole Company. For this reafon, upon fome pre- 

 tence or other, he went before, the better to bring about his defign. We ftaid 

 till the Morning , and then departed early from Scalanova , and by Noon we came 

 with good Stomachs to the Mofcjiicc near Ephefus, where we had been the day before : 

 And fome of the Company thought it a very convenient place to dine in , Tthe 

 fhadc-, thereupon we fent for our Provifions, with a Boracho of Wine, and ano- 

 ther of Water , and fell to eating in the Paffage into the Mofquee , not dreaming 

 any harm. We had not been long at it, when we perceiv'd two or three Turks 

 about two hundred Paces off, who came from a Village very near to the Mofquec. 

 I knowing the cuftom of the Country better than they, told them , that they were 

 certainly coming to pick a quarrel with us , and therefore caus'd them to hide the 

 Bottle of Wine immediately, for it was then the Turks Ramczan, or Lent •, during 

 which time^Wine is ftriftly forbidden. Thefc two ill-contriv'd and ill-clad Fellows 

 were the Janizaries of the place , whom the Cadi had icnt y upon the information 

 of our Janizary, (who knowing we had eaten in the fame place before, as indeed 

 we had done , made no queftion but we would do fo again ) thinking to iurprize us 



E 2 as 



