88 The Persian Travels Book II. 



the other. It is one of the beft countries in the pofleflion of the Grand Signor. 

 being ftor'd with large Meadows and excellent Pafturage , where are bred infinite 

 numbers of Beafts, efpeciaUy Mares and Bufalo's. 1 he Female Bufalo's go twelve 

 Months, and yield fo much milk, that there are fome which will give two and 

 twenty Pints. And there isfo large a quantity of Butter made, that in fome Vil- 

 lages upon the Tigris , we fawfometimes five and twenty, fometimes twenty Barks 

 lad'n with Butter , which the people fell all along the Gulf of Pcrfia , as well upon 

 Arabia, as Pcrfia fide. 



Half the way between 'Bagdat and Balfara , we perceiv'd feveral Pavilions fet 

 up in the Meadows along by the fide of the River. Upon enquiry we heard that 

 the Tefterdar was come from Confiannnople to gather the Grand Signor's duty's. For 

 from Bagdat to Gorno , for all the Bufalo's as well Male as Female , there is to be paid 

 a Piafier and a quarter for every head once a year •, which is worth yearly to the 

 Grand Signor a hundred and fourfcore thoufimd Piaflers. Every Mare alio pays two 

 Piaflers, every Sheep ten Sous; which if the Country people were not very cunning, 

 would be worth fifty thoufand Piaflers more than it is. 



After. this we came to Gorno, a Fortrefs upon the point where the two Rivers meet , 

 befides two other f mall Caftles upon each fide , fo that there is no palling without 

 leave. Upon the Fort of Gorno which was well furnifh'd with Cannon , we law the 

 Prince of Balfara s Son , who was Governour of the Fort. And here it is that the 

 Account of the Cuftoms is taken. But though they are very cxacl: in fearching the 

 Barks , they are very civil , for they fcarch no body. However left any Goods 

 fTiould be hid between the Planks of the Ships , over which they generally throw Fa- 

 gots and Canes, the Cuftomers bring a great Piercer , with which they bore the fides 

 of the Bark quite through for the dilcovcry of conceal'd Goods. The Goods are 

 Regifter'd at Gorno, but the Cuftoms are always paid at Balfara, according to 

 the accompt giv'n from the Fort. 



The fame day entring into the Channel that is cut out of Euphrates to Balfara , 

 We met the chief of the Holland Factory taking his pleaiure in a Boat cover'd with 

 Scarlet , who took me with him to Balfara. 



'Balfara ftands upon the fide of Arabia deferta , two Leagues from the Ruines of 

 a City, which was formerly call'd Teredon, and anciently flood in theDeiert, to 

 which the Water was formerly conveigh'd out of Euphrates in a Brick Channel ftill 

 to be feen. 



By the Ruines it appears to have been a great City, from whence the Arabians 

 fetch away the Bricks and fell them at Balfara. The City of 'Balfara is half a 

 League from Euphrates , which the Arabians in their Language call SheteLarcb , 

 or the River of Arabia. The Inhabitants of the City have" made a Channel to it 

 about half a League long, which bears VefTels of 150 Tun-, at the end where- 

 of ftands a Fort, fo that no VefTel can get into the Fort without leave. The Sea is 

 above fifteen Leagues off, but the Tide comes up to the Channel , and fills the River 

 other fifteen Leagues upward beyond Gorno. The Country is fo low , that were 

 it not for a Dam that runs along the Sea-fhoar , it would often be in danger of being 



u° Wn iA Th r° Dam isaboveaLea g ueinIen g tn > and huiltallofFree-ftonefoftrong, 



that thefury of the waves can do them no injury,though it lie open to a Boyftrous Sea. 



It is not above a hundred years fince Balfara belong'd to the Arabians of the Defert, 



and had no commerce with the Nations of Europe . For thofe people were contented 



to eat their own Dates, having fo great a quantity, that they only live upon them. 



1 is the lame thing all along the Gulf on each fide •, for from -Balfara to the River 

 Indus for above fix hundred Leagues together, and all along the Coaftof Arabia to 

 Mafcate the poor fort of people know not what it is to eat Rice, but live upon 

 Dates and Salt-fifh dry'd in the wind. The Cows eat no Grafs , and though they 

 go abroad in the fields, they find little or nothing among the bullies which is 

 proper for them to eat. But every Morning before they drive them to the 

 Fied and when they return home, they give them heads of fifh and Date-nuts 

 boil d together. 



The Turks having had War with the Arabians took Balfara; and yet becaufc 

 the Arabians always hover'd about the Town , and made booty of all they could lay 

 their hands on , they were fore'd to come to an agreement with them , that the Arabs 

 ihould quietly enjoy all the Defert 'till within a League of the City, and that the 



Turks 



