510 Journal of a trip through Kunawur, §c. [No. 101. 



already been written, and it will therefore suffice to say, that the same 

 streams were waded through, and the same broken and rocky paths 

 were traversed, till we again arrived in safety at the village of Chungo. 

 Having halted here a couple of days to refresh my people, and also to 

 procure specimens of the wild sheep, which abound in the neighbouring 

 cliffs, I once more started with the intention of going to Leeo, but the 

 Vuzeer Puttee Ram, who was now on his way back to Soongnum from 

 the fort of Skialkur, where he had been to inspect the store of arms 

 &c, advised me to take a passing peep at Nako, which he described as 

 a nice cool halting place. I therefore changed my plans and marched 

 to Nako on the heights above Leeo, Puttee Ram sending me a Ghoont 

 to carry me up the hill. The road for the greater part of the way was 

 the same as I had travelled over from Leeo to Chungo, when on 

 my upward journey to Spiti ; it was so stony and rugged, that I 

 preferred trusting to my own legs rather than to those of the Ghoont, 

 in spite of the people's assurance that he would carry me safely. 

 The village of Nako, like all the others of these regions, is a collection 

 of small dirty huts, with flat roofs, and built of unbaked bricks of 

 large size, intermingled with slabs of stone, or usually, as in Spiti, 

 of stone for the foundation, and of bricks above. There is a good deal of 

 cultivation about it, and water is plentiful. There is a small pond 

 of good depth near the village, on which were several Brahminee 

 ducks. 



The village boasts of two or three takoordwaras, or Lama temples, 

 which contain a few very badly formed clay images of their gods. 

 The people have no objection to a traveller entering their temples, 

 which is a great convenience, as I found more than once when my tent 

 was in the rear, after a long march. At Nako I took possession of one 

 of them, which afforded me a cool retreat during the heat of the day. 



The walls of these temples are usually daubed over on the out- 

 side with red, whilst on the inside they are painted with numerous 

 grotesque figures of gods, men, and animals ; they are generally 

 square built, and contain one room. 



The largest of the kind I saw during my journey was at the village 

 of Tabo in Spiti, where there are three or four rooms all decorated 

 with figures. This temple is the largest in the district, and is conse- 

 quently the head quarters of the Lamas. It contains an immense 

 collection of manuscripts, which are said to contain all the mysteries of 



