1840.] Journal of a trip through Kunawur, fyc. 511 



the Lama religion, and on certain occasions are read to all who are 

 willing to listen. There was besides the larger rooms of images, an 

 inner apartment in which a small lamp was burning, and into which 

 I was requested not to set my unhallowed foot, as none but the 

 priests themselves were allowed, except a la distance ! to inspect 

 what was within. It contained a small altar, placed before a god, with 

 a brazen lamp burning on it ; there were also brazen utensils of all 

 sorts and sizes, musical instruments, such as tom-toms and cymbals 

 and a quantity of raw ribs of meat, apparently of mutton, with which, 

 like the jolly friars of olden times, no doubt they were wont to regale 

 themselves. 



There are a few Lamas resident at Nako, where they are zemindars. 

 They occasionally receive presents from the brotherhood in China, 

 of small carpets, tea cups, pieces of silk, &c. One of these men coming 

 to pay me a visit and to show all the curious things in his possession, 

 doubtless with a view to tempt me to become a purchaser, the conver- 

 sation by some chance turned upon the subject of how Lamas were 

 made, and who could become one. He said there were no really good 

 Lamas either in Hungrung or Spiti, as it had become somewhat cus- 

 tomary to make a Lama of any wealthy zemindar, who happened to 

 have a family, while properly speaking no Lama, should either marry 

 or have children. 



I asked him if I could be made a Lama, to which he replied there 

 .could be no objection provided I would study for some months among 

 them, and be initiated into the mysteries of their religion, with regard 

 to the resurrection or reappearance of the Grand Lamas after death. 

 We did not get on very satisfactorily, as the Kunawurrees who were 

 standing by, burst into a loud laugh at my explanation of the case, 

 which displeased the Lama and made him drop the subject. 



It seems however from what he said, that when a Grand Lama dies, 

 an inventory is made of all his effects, which are carefully sealed up 

 until his reappearance in life to claim them. 



In explanation whereof, he said, suppose a Grand Lama were to 

 die in Chinese Tartary, his effects would be carefully guarded ; — some 

 time afterwards perhaps he might appear at Nako in Hungrung, in 

 the form of some Lama's child. 



This is known to be the new Grand Lama, from his laying claim 

 to the sealed up effects of the deceased Grand Lama. He is then 



J 



