558 Journal of a trip through Kunawur, tyc. [No. 102. 



had thrown away a number of valuable rock specimens also. So much 

 for Tartar morals. 



If coolies are required from a village in Spiti, no man will move 

 without first receiving his four annas, and it is then by no means im- 

 probable, that he will set down his load about half way, and leave you 

 in the lurch, or he will leave part of it behind, and carry on the rest, 

 telling you very coolly that it is too heavy, although perhaps the whole 

 does not amount to twenty seers. 



Sometimes again, no man will stir even if you offer him double pay 

 and a light load, for fear the Mookiah of the village, who happens to 

 be absent, should feel displeased at his giving you assistance, and in 

 this case the load must be left behind until you can send back a man 

 for it from the next stage. If asked whether they will sell you a 

 sheep or goat, flour or birmore (woollen stuff,) they invariably tell 

 you there is no such thing to be had in the village, either because the 

 season has been bad and the crops have failed, or because somebody 

 has robbed them ; while at the same time they have plenty of every 

 one of the articles demanded ; but their fears that the traveller will 

 take what he fancies, without giving them payment for the same, at 

 once prompts them to tell a lie as the safest mode of escape. When 

 once assured of payment, however, they bring their goods forward, al- 

 though at a most exhorbitant price, thinking, no doubt, that as a pay- 

 ing customer is seldom met with, the best way is to make the most of 

 him when he does appear. 



It is very true that all this may originate from the mode in which 

 they are treated by their governors, and that if they were more hap- 

 pily circumstanced they would behave otherwise; but with the causes 

 of their behaviour, I have nothing to do, and I therefore speak of the 

 Tartar as I found him. 



These remarks however are much more applicable to the Tartars 

 of Spiti than to those of Bussaher, or as they term themselves by way 

 of distinction, both from the Tartars of other districts and from the 

 Kunawurrees, " Tartars of Hungrung within." 



The Tartars of Hungrung are subject to Bussaher ; those of Spiti 

 to Ladak ; and the Chinese Tartars to China ; these although essen- 

 tially the same people, have nevertheless their peculiarities and dis- 

 tinctions both in dress, and language. 



