CHAPTER III. 



YELLOWSTONE FALLS— GEYSER BASINS— MADISON LAKE- 

 SHOSHONE LAKE— MOUNT SHERIDAN— HEAD OF SNAKE 

 RIVER— JACKSON'S LAKE— RETURN TO FORT HALL. 



During Mr. Stevenson's absence, seven of us made a short trip to the 

 Yellowstone Falls and Lake, starting on the morning of the 2l8t. As 

 far as to the forks of Hayden's Fork, we had no difBculty in following 

 the trail,' but here, among the swamj^y ground, it spread out so as to 

 be very blind, and we finally decided to make one for ourselves, 

 following a northeasterly course. The slopes of the dividing ridge 

 are heavily timbered; and, at some points, we found difiliculty in 

 forcing our way, though much twisting about was generally the extent 

 of our trouble. The pack-mule, however, was coutiMually running 

 against trees and loosening the rope; so that either " tightening up" or 

 '' re-packing" was necessary at least twenty-five times, in making not 

 over five miles. Upon reaching the crest, we found that this was the 

 highest point of the ridge for several miles, being about 8,893 feet above 

 the sea ; but this we did not regret, when we came to view the surround- 

 ing scenery ; for we not only enjoyed the sight of a broad expanse of 

 beautiful country, but were able to select a route which saved us some 

 miles of travel. From the summit, we descended directly to the head 

 of a stream- valley which shortly opened out into broad, grassy areas, 

 along which we traveled rapidly toward the main valley. Near the 

 head- waters of this little stream, we passed several mud-pots and warm 

 springs, some of the latter showing considerable deposits of sulphur. 

 Emerging from the foot-hills, we found that this stream joined the Yel- 

 lowstone south of the Crater Hills ; we therefore crossed the rolling 

 prairie to the northward, and camped near the mouth of a large creek 

 which joins the river just north of the Crater Hills, having traveled, as 

 we judged, about twenty-seven miles. Next morning we struck the 

 trail near the mouth of the creek, and reached the falls in about eight 

 miles. 



Here, there is little to add to the descriptions already published. We 

 examined and admired the canon and falls from all the customary points ; 

 but those of us who descended to the red knob which stands out in the 

 middle of the caiion, in front of the lower fall and slightly above its 

 level, agreed that this was by far the best point from which to view it. 

 Mr. Jackson's best photographs of the fall were taken from this point. 

 Descents to the bottom of the canon below the fall have heretofore been 

 made on the east side, the slopes on the west side having been held im- 

 practicable. But, with considerable difficulty, I made a way down, 

 often reaching ahead with my hammer to cut holes for the next steps, 

 and stood at the foot of the fall. The water is mostly broken into drops 

 before reaching the bottom, and the air is filled with spray, driven vio- 

 lently down the canon by the strong wind created by the rush of the 

 fall. The slopes which are thus kept wet are well covered with grasses 

 and flowers, of which several species were gathered. Thi3 is evidently 



