278 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



Monday morning was like all the mornings, bright aud 

 beautiful, with little wind, and that not from the quarter to 

 assist us much ; so we threaded the maze of islands along the 

 coast — which was all that, day even more picturesque than 

 UBual— and visited several brooks which appeared too low 

 for fishing. Ten o'clock found us creeping along the shore 

 out of the wind up into a deep bay and through a narrow 

 passage between the rocks into a beautiful lake, at the head 

 of which our chart located a stream. There was little water 

 in it, however, and only a few trout were lapded. While P. 

 and I were fishing, Morton took the rifle and one of the 

 guides, and the sharp crack, many times repeated, told us that 

 he had found something. In half an hour they returned with 

 a dozen fine partridges (so called), a welcome" addition to our 

 supplies. Coming out and rounding the point to the east, 1 

 threw out a spoon, hoping to take a lake trout, and soon felt 

 a strike and a strugg e, and pulled in a fine, silvery Sabno 

 JonttnaUn, weighing nearly three pounds. We then tried the 

 rocks with flies, but neither they nor the spoon tempted any 

 others. We took dinner at the mouth of a pretty stream, 

 upon whose sands we found a caribou track, quite fresh, but 

 as we also found an Indian track on the trail we did not fol- 

 low it. The water along this part of the coast was very cold, 

 in marked contrast to that further west or south of Pucka- 

 squaw Eiver. What could so affect the temperature of the 

 different parts of the lake I cannot tell. The breeze suddenly 

 shifted after we started in the afternoon, and we had a fine 

 sail past the beautiful Peninsula Harbor to Pic River. There 

 were many and heavy fires along the coast, and the smoke 

 was especially dense as we pushed through a narrow and shal- 

 low channel between islands just north of the river; and as 

 •we struggled along we saw dimly through the smcke the 

 rapidly receding lines of the steamer Manitoba, which had 

 stopped outside the bar for a few minutes and landed mails 

 and a passenger or two. There was a peculiar sonibrecess 

 about the sky, which we thought came from the smoke or a 

 threatening storm, aud we did not learn for some weeks that 

 ■we might that afternoon have seen an eclipse of the sun if 

 •we had looked. 



We camped on the east side of Pic River. On the west 

 side was the Hudson '8 Bay Company's "store," and an Indian 

 village of some twenty or more birch bark lodges, with an un- 

 finished wooden structure intended for a church. We went 

 through the village next morning. Most of the men were 

 absent hunting or fishing, but some young men were hanging 

 about the company's store-house many of whom were very 

 line specimens uf physical manhood, tall, straight and weil 

 proportioned. Among i hem were some who evidently gave 

 their whole minds to the set of their jaunty Scotch caps and 

 the tie of their fancy handkerchiefs. There were some light, 

 warm robes of woven rabbit skins hanging upon poles and 

 before the doors of lodges. We saw an ox-cart, too, near the 

 storehouse, and at once felt the sweet influences of civili- 

 sation. 



To vary our diet, and to get rid of the taste of trout, of 

 which we were all tired, wc bought all the whitefish and lake 

 trout we could find, which were few, as but one Indian had 

 «ome in from his nets that morning. 



Tie River is a large stream, having a very heavy flow of 

 water. We were told there that it could be navigated by 

 boats for one hundred and eighty miles, and that a large busi- 

 ness was done at the post in the fur trade with the Indians 

 along its banks. I think it discharges more water into the 

 lake than any other river, unless it may be the Ncpigon. 



The next day was without events worthy of record ; the 

 fishing poor both in stream and lake. On Wednesday morn- 

 ing we were driven into a deep bay, where we found a safe 

 harbor from a violent westerly gale. Before the sea got too 

 high we took some eighteen or twenty trout in fishing from 

 the rocks, mostly of fine size and full of spirit. This whs 

 about fifteen or eighteen miles from Pic. 



Thursday, the gale having subsided, we pushed on to 

 Rideau River — as we judged its name must be from an im- 

 perfect map we had— taking a few fish in different places 

 along the coast. Rideau River is a small stream falling in 

 two or three successive falls over a hundred feet right into 

 the lake. About sixty feet above the lake, by dint of hard 

 climbing over the glassy water-washed granite, we came upon 

 a beautiful pool some fifty feet in diameter and of unknown 

 depth ; but no trout would rise, and we saw none. The falls 

 are well worth seeing, and we took a few trout from the lake 

 at their foot. We camped near Otter Cove in a sheltered bay. 

 P. shot a little sand-piper at eighty yards with the rifle, and 

 further amused his shipmates by being wrecked in navigating 

 a log across the little bay. He protested that he could see 

 nothing ludicrous in being tipped suddenly into ice-water 

 with his clothes on, and on reflection we concluded he was 

 right, though we still laughed. 



Friday we passed Otter Head, and when a mile away we 

 could see why it was so named. About noon we made Puck- 

 3squaw River, not named on the chart, but noted as a rivulet 

 ten fathoms wide at the mouth. Entering it we found a broad, 

 beautiful expanse of water, with low falls seen from its 

 mouth. We dined on a rock at the foot of the falls, and 

 fished the stream for about a hundred yards. High precipices 

 arose on each side for nearly live hundred feel, from which 

 huge masses of rock had fallen into the stream from time to 

 time, making the ascent, if not impossible, sufficiently diffi- 

 cult to make i!ie carriage of our rods very hazardous. So 

 we contented ourselves after dinner for two or three hours in 

 what we could reach without risk. Our catch was here sixty- 

 two, with none over two pounds, and an average of not over 

 a half pound. Apart from the fishing the views of the can- 

 yon were so grand and beautiful as to charm us. 



On Saturday we readied Dog River, passing the long 

 stxetch of nine miles without a practicable boat-landing, a 

 place which guides will hesitate to pass except in a cairn, or a 

 light fair wind. We found Dog River falls very flue, but 

 destitute of trout. Flies were plenty. Bear sign in the berry 

 patches along the east side of the river was frequent. We 

 had, however, a fine Sunday camp and a glorious rest. 



Monday we had a variable breeze, and the day being fine 

 we tried several streams and rocks, with but little success, 

 however. The rock fishing about Michipicoton harbor has 

 long been noted among frequenters of the North Shore; but 

 from some cause, I know not what, it yielded little to us. We 

 made camp at a little island iuside the bar, aud went up to the 

 Hudson's Bay Company's post to make a few purchases of 

 supplies. Mr. Bell, the agent, had gone up to Brunswick, a 

 post several days' canoeing up the river. His family we un- 

 derstood were at the pleasant residence at the post. There 

 was quite a large Indian village, with a little church on the 

 opposite side of the river, aDd one or two tents near it, which, 

 we were informed, was the camp of the Catholic priest, then 

 there on his annual visitation. A young gentleman at the 

 post, who hnd been for si-veral years at the Company's po=t at 

 the niuuth of the Nepigon, kindly gave us information as to 



the river, which, however, we did not propose at this lime to 

 ascend. The flies were extremely plenty Hnd active. Even 

 the Indians had nets and veils around their head? and necks 

 Trout were said to be plenty one or two days' journey up the 

 river, >,nd our informant, who had recently been up to Biues- 

 wick, stated that on the trip he saw many magnific 

 but not having his red with him, and his'trip being purely a 

 business one, he did not take any. He said the mosquitoes 

 and flies were dreadful, and that '-eviii the big grasshop- 

 pers bit up the river. " His rod was marked Willi i he length 

 of the largest trout he bad taken at ihe Nepigou. twenty 

 three and three-quarter inches, which weigin d a fraction uver 

 six aud a ha f pounds 



Purchasing a supply of whiteflsh, we pushed down the coast 

 the next morning, taking a d< z u trout in Noisy River, and 

 about four o'clock in the afternoon we found ourselves alone 

 the abrupt coast, of Lope CtlOgge As my boat came first 

 along the cape, 1 made a casr, rind to my surprise a fine trout 

 struck. The lar.ding-net8 were in the other boat, and in 

 attempting to lift him in, the leader parted. S ill, thinking 

 the strike an accident as we had had so poor success off the 

 rocks, least again with the remaining fly, and had the satis 

 faction of seeing that eariied away in a hurry. This wi.s busi- 

 ness, and I then selected two good large flies, with double 

 snoods, one the favorite brown hackle, and the other a Canada 

 i.ty, and, cutting off several feet of the worn and frayed end of 

 my line, I commenced inearntst. The trout rose beautifully. 

 In a few minutes I landed a fine fellow, about >eventeen inches 

 long. The other boat had come, aud I bad taken a landing- 

 net and felt prepared forthe— be.-t. A cast or two more and 

 two large fish rose, each taking u fly, and my work began. I 

 had lost the extreme top of my rod at Noisy River, and had 

 forgotten to change it, so the line left the rod through a ring 

 about half an inch from the break. The fish soon came in 

 sight, and Joe and Charley, my two boatmen, seeing them, 

 said I could never capture them both ; that the larger, being 

 the upper fish, would be all I could kill. I had more confi- 

 dence, however, and us they promised obedience, I promised 

 success. My experience in striking two or more fish had 

 taught me that the difficulty in capturing more than one large 

 fish at once arose from the fact that the upper fish being 

 closer to the top of the water fights more, and the lower fish 

 follows him without much resistance until the landing-net or 

 immediate danger alarms him. So both fish must be exhausted 

 before any attempt at landing is made. With this in view, I 

 directed the fight until some time after the larger had shown 

 his silver belly, the smaller showed his. The landing-net took 

 in the former, and carefully by hand 1 lifted the latter into the 

 boat. They were beauties. The smaller of the two had the 

 fly I had first lost still fastened to his mouth. The two 

 measured in length twenty-three and a quarter, and eighteen 

 and three-quarter inches respectively. With a seven ounce 

 rod, and a broken tip at that, I thought I had done well. The 

 next cast brought me two more, mates, measuring seventeen 

 and one-half inches long each. These two fights were severe 

 and long, and I felt sore from the continued exertion. A few 

 more were taken to each boat, and as we had to go three or 

 four miles yet to camp, we left the finest fishing ground I have 

 ever tried. In the other boat were two broken second joints, 

 the result of the battle, and rather a demoralized condition of 

 tackle generally. The boys, however, had done well, and we 

 reached camp a satisfied and hungry party. A glorious chow- 

 der of trout, made aa only a coast Yankee can make it (super- 

 intended by Morton), tilled us to repletion. The guides had no 

 experience in that dish, and were rather averse to eating it 

 But after we had enough, we watched them attack the gallon 

 aud a half that was left. They skirmished at first, but the en. 

 gagement soon became general all along the line. There was 

 none left. 



Wednesday morning was threatening, and for a while we 

 hesitated about going to the rocks again, but finally concluded 

 to try it. F.'s line was frayed and old, and we advised 

 him to change it. He refused, to his subsequent regret ; for 

 he struck two at one cast, immense fellows, larger than' my 

 largest, but in spite of all his skill, and ho has his share, his 

 line parted, and they were gone. We took a number, but the 

 wind freshening so as to make fishing unpleasant, we left that 

 place, determined, however, next year, or the next at any 

 rate, to try it again. 



We took dinner at Cape Gargantuce, where we found a 

 large number of small but beautifully colored agates. The 

 scenery was charming, and the breeze dying away in the after- 

 noon, we rowed several miles among the islands. We hud 

 hoped to make Gravel River that night, but night coming on, 

 we camped in a little bay some seven miles from that point. 



Next morning, for the first lime since we left Silver Islet, 

 we bad rain. But wishing lo fish Gravel River and the 

 Agawa, we put off without regard to the wet. We reached 

 the former river about ten o'clock, but found it so low that 

 fishing was a mere waste of time. The gravel point had so ex- 

 tended, in consequence of the low water, we could hardly get 

 our boats into the river. The lake at that place was, at least, 

 sixteen inches lower than I had ever before seen it, and the 

 river nearly dry. Hoping the Agawa was fuller, and the 

 breeze being good, we made that point, some fifteen miles in 

 two hours, and after dinner went up the stream. It, too, was 

 lower than I had ever known it before, and the bar at the 

 mouth only passable when the swell was on with great care. 

 As we could get the boats up only a short distance, we Ashed 

 only a half mile or so above the mouth, meeting with indiffer- 

 ent success. The next morning we tried the rocks about 

 Agawa Island with no better results. While camping here, a 

 party of four from Erie, Pa., came, They had had fair sport 

 along the streams from Sault Sle. Marie, but noue in the coast, 

 or rock fishing. This decided us upon making the Sault as 

 soon as we reasonably could. We camped one night at Mon- 

 treal River, the volume of which did not seem much 

 diminished by the general drought. There were many pike 

 in the mouth of this river, as of almost all the larger rivers 

 wc visited. Montreal Falls are well worth a visit, but it 

 requires sturdy climbing to see them from the best points. 



We passed along down the coast, seeing Boulder Cove, 

 where F. and I 1 ad been nearly wrecked once, and along the 

 mountainous shores to Miamause. Here wo found a fishing 

 station, and two rosy-cheeked women, with even rosier chil- 

 dren, kept the station while the husbands and fathers were 

 at their gill-nets, i.en or fifteen miles out on the lake. The 

 fishing boats came in about noon, and we bought ten great 

 fish, all white fish except two, averaging aboui eight pounds 

 each, for a dollar and a quarter, thinking that would last us to 

 the Sault. In five meals, however, there was not a bone left. 

 Our potatoes hr-d given out end our appetites had remained. 

 It is surprising even to an old stager, to sec how much young 

 men will eat ; but then, as Falstaff said, " Young men must 

 five." 



Nothing of intt rest occurred further on oui trip, unless it 

 was a severe blow between Pancake Bay and Gros Cap, which 



frightened Joe so be begged to run for Goulats Bay. About 

 noon of the morning we left Gros Cap we ran the rapids at 

 the Sault— a thing that looks more dangerous than it is with 

 experienced voyagcurs— and landed at the Custom House, and 

 our coasting trip of nearly four weeks was 



We everywhere found the streams unusually low, and ihe 

 lake from twelve to eighteen inches lower than wo had any of 

 us before noticed. Rock fishing was poor, generally— whether 

 from the lateness of the season or what cause I cannot tell. 

 The stream fishing was affected by the lowness of the water 

 The streams fed from inland lakes— which we could tell from 

 the color and temperature of the water usually --had more 

 nearly their usual volume than the others. 



The temperature of the lake water seemed higher than usual 

 except about Peninsula Harbor, aud from there to Pucka- 

 squaw Eiver ; but as we bad no thermometer we maybe mis- 

 taken. The almost total absence of snow and ice during the 

 last winter would in some measure account tor the fact if it 

 be a fact. 



(lame is not very plenty along Ihe coast, and huntiug in 

 such a wilderness would be more labor than pleasure. Two 

 bears were *een and chased by the hoys, but the brutes best 

 understood the country and escaped, or the trail got too fresh, 

 and the boys stopped the hunt. Some partridges (ruffed 

 grouse) can be found in tbe timber growing upon alluvial 

 formation, and perhaps elsewhere. Rabbits are plentiful 

 everywhere, but snares should be of wire or of cord soaked or 

 robbed with something offensive to them, for they eat ordi 

 nary string or cord. The India s have some preparation. We 

 saw a few caribou tracks. 



The Indians one meets are honest, inoffensive and poor, for 

 the most part, except in children. They fish and hunt, will 

 go up the rivers with you in their canoes, and work for little, 

 pay and plenty of food in a most surprising way. Tbey are 

 glad to see fishermen's boats, because they always receive kind 

 treatment from such persons. A few crackers or a little flour- 

 is a God-send to them, and their gratitude never takes the 

 form of theft, however great their necessities. 



Next year we propose trying the Michipicoten River, pos- 

 sibly going over to Moose Fort, if time and oceasion offers 

 and the river yields any fish, in which event you may hear 

 from me again. ft 



October, 1878. 



A TRIP TO THE LAKE REGION OF 

 CENTRAL FLORIDA 



Editor Fobest and Stream : 



During the winter season men of leisure from all parts of iht 

 world find recreation and perhaps profit in a short visit to the 

 section of the State south of here. 



About January last year a party of five gentlemen from the 

 United States aud one from England met in this city. They 

 had never known each other before, but were all here tor re*, 

 creation aud sport. After an acquaintance had been formed 

 they undertook a hunting and fishing trip together. These 

 gentlemen were Capt. W- C, Sims and John Quinlan, of New 

 York; William Dudgeon, of London, EDgland , Percita3 

 Clement, of Vermont, aud Charles Wagner, of St. Louie. 

 Captain Sims is the owner of one of the handsomest and trim- 

 mest little steam yachts that ever plowed the St. Johns, and 

 he kindly placed her (the Ruth) at the disposal of ibe party 



With the genial CaptaiD at her helm the Ruth, one fine 

 morning in January, steamed out from the docks, with 

 flying colors and a parting cheer from their friends, who hae 

 gathered to see her off. In her snug cabin there was every- 

 thing to tempt the appetite of the sportsman and help to fl I 

 the aching void after a long day's hunt. Along the river the 

 Ruth glided like a thing of life, and after stops at numerous 

 points, where the party were cordially received, they arrived 

 at Lake Harris. This region is regarded as the most beautiful 

 of Florida. Connecting with Lake Harris are Lakes Eustes 

 and Griffin. On the shores of Lake Harris our party spent six 

 weeks, of such enjoyment as only those who have had simi- 

 lar experience can understand. Camp was pitched and the 

 sport began. The weather even in this favored locality never 

 was more beautiful. Not a drop of rain fell during the whole 

 time, save on one night and day, A trip waB made nearly 

 every day either into the woods adjoining or with the yacht 

 out on the lakes. Wagner, the faithful secretary, kept the. 

 score, which shows that the average number of duckn 

 daily was fifty, besides a great number of quail, eight deer, 

 two panthers and many wild turkeys. 



During the time the parly remained on the lake Mr. Ci 

 made his record as the champion duck and panther ehoo'.ei 

 Mr. Wagner carried off a diploma foi excellence in Quail 

 shooting, and was awarded the first, premium aa the boss eater 

 of the crowd. Mr. Dudgeon displayed on several occasions 

 his splendid maiknianship, and one day with a Henry Express 

 rifle, at a distance of three hundred yards, killed one of two 

 ducks which were near together, and wounded the other. 

 Mr. Quinlan proved to be the greatest still hunter on record.' 

 He kept still in the teul until the deer came around, and then 

 scared them away by rushing out and trying to lasso them. 



One day, Mr. Dudgeon, while going through the thick un- 

 derbrush, about two miles from camp, discovered a yotlfis 

 bear, which he easily brought down with his rifle. While in 

 the act of skinning the animal the mother bear riiehed at bur- 

 in a Furious rage, and before he had time to get his rill' 

 had grappled him, and only his great presence of mind in 

 plunging his knife into her vitals permitted him to live to tell 

 the tale. It was late iu the evening when he reached camp, 

 and we all went out to gaze on his victory. His left arm was 

 badly torn aud lacerated, and useless for 'three v., 



At the end of six weeks the party prepared to leave for 

 Jacksonville. Il was with genuine regret that they parted 

 with Capt. Pharis, Capt. Cooper, Jennings Oottrell and Henry 

 Duncan, gentleman living on Lake Harris, to whom, and 

 many others, the excursionists had been Indebted for many 

 favors, i dawn the Ocklawaha the party amused 



themselves by shooting alligators. One alligator, shot by Mr. 

 Dudgeon on our way UJ) and taken on board the yacht, meas- 

 ured fourteen feet two inches. The hide was taken off and 

 preserved. 



The recollection of the pleasures of this trip to " The Cen- 

 tral Lakes of Florida " will never fade from the memory of 

 those composing the jovial company. Wio. 



Jadaxmiitlk, Flu. 



