THE AMERICAN SPORTSMAN'S JOURNAL, 



NEW YORK. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 1878. 



WAYDOWN BEBEE'S FALL SONG. 



(^£E de leaves a fallra' down— 

 ^ Hear de breezes blowln' ; 

 See tie skies a loolcin' like 



Da eiouds would soon be snowin'. 

 —Wake up, cull'd folks— 



Hustle in clut wood ; 

 GH In your meat and 'tatarg, 



For summer's gone for good ! 



See lie frost on tnpde grsss 



An' n'ar do chil'en er.i in' ; 

 De Ivy green lias got a. chin, 



An' baseball am a dyin'. 

 Chorus— Wake np In de mawnin'— 



IVfake rtem black heels fly ! 

 Summer's gone, an' winter com 



Won't pass de darkey by : 



De 'possum wanders all alone, 



De woodeliUL'k sadly calls; 

 I>3 hickory nut it can't hold on, 

 An' to do groun' i|; falls, 

 Chorus— Lift up dem feet, braider— 

 Make ce c ibin' tight; 

 De winter will be long nn' cold, 

 Kase summer was so bright ! 



—bch.-.it Free JVcus. 



For Fcretl and Stream ami Eod and Gun. 



^nroomt\g==^o t Ik 



0( (Continued from Oct. 10, 1878.) 



MONDAY morning 1 rose at 5 a. m., cooked break- 

 fast, and started at 7 a. m., for Pavillion Key. This 

 island is a prominent, object, for it is the mist westerly 

 land Bouth of Cape Romano, and about twenty miles in a 

 northerly direction from the Chuekaluskee River. When 

 crossing the grassy mud flats, several miles south of Pavillion 

 Key, we passed near and over largo numbers of small-sized 

 green and loggerhead turtles. If deposed we could have cap- 

 tured numbers with tho grains, but we refrained from injur- 

 ing them. I proposed passing to the eastward of the Key, but 

 as it was the last of tbe ebb tide, I grounded on the mud and 

 grassy flats, and was forced to retreat and fiud deeper water. 

 I steered for the southwesterly point of the island, where 

 I made a landing at 11 a. m. Tramping around the westerly 

 side of the island, I noticed a coon experimenting upon the 

 exposed oysters. As I was between him and the bushes, he 

 endeavored to escape observation by squatting. On the island 

 coon tracks were visible everywhere. Wherever coon oyster 

 bars exist, there will be found plenty of raccoons. Looking 

 -ahead, I saw a collection of hundreds of whito polleans seek- 

 ing shelteramong the bushes. I approached within forty yards 

 of them. In front of me was a channel, fifty feet wide, and on 

 the opposite side a grassy point of about an acre in extent 

 hacked by mangrove bashes, and literally packed with pelil 

 canB. This appeared to be a sort of general rendezvous, 

 where they collected to sun themselves and arrange their 

 feathers. Iloaded one barrel with TT shot, emerged from my 

 hiding-place, shouted, and, as tho birds rose, fired, and six 

 beautiful specimens succumbed to the destructive effects of 

 powder and lead. Borne of your readers will accuse me of in- 

 humanity and pot -hunting ; hut I entertain different views re- 

 garding the utility of sea bird.?, and pelicans in particular. Be- 

 fore man appears on the scene, sea birds seem necessary to 

 maintain the balance in nature; but when man steps in with 

 nets, hooks and grains, and m some instances the wanton de- 

 struction of fish, the services of destructive pelicans can be 

 dispensed with. While I am opposed to pot-hunters, and the 

 , useless destruction of useful birds, I am forced to the con- 

 i elusion that the destructive services of sea bird3 can be dis- 

 pensed with on our coast. 



At each inlet, pass, bar and shoal along the coast south of Sar- 

 asota, large numbers of pelicans will be found, and at a rough 

 estimate I would place the number at half-a-million. Policans 

 generally feed on small fish, and from my observations I have 

 reason to believe that they will at the lowest estimate destroy 

 100 daily. If my conclusions are correct the pelicans sXims. a 

 coast line of Jess than 200 miles will destroy 00, COO, 000" of 

 young fish daily, and yearly 18,250,000,000. Many of the 

 young fish consumed would not attain a large size ; but if we 

 assume that the average weight of all the fish consumed 

 W juld reach a half pound, we will find that the. pelicans destroy 

 what would amount to over 400,000 of^tons annually. If tho 

 fish consumed could attain maturity, their progeny would 

 materially add to the quantity of fish on the coast. Add to 

 the fish consumed by the pelicans, those that arc destroyed by 

 Other sea birds, and It is strange that the existing quantity 



should be so great. While many of the fish captured by 

 birds could not be used as food, the day is coming when men- 

 haden will become Ecarce on our northern coast, and these 

 waste fishes may be required for oil and manurial purposes. 



About a quarter of a mile north of Pelican Key will be 

 noticed a sandy key, with a few mangroves. Around this 

 island will be found luscious clams, whose home in the sand 

 can be ascertained by treading with tbe heel. In addition to 

 the clams, crawfish of large size, sbeepshead, channel bass and 

 sea trout can be cap'ured in great quantities. Around auy of 

 the keys tho shootist can readily fill his bag with snipe and 

 curlews. In the channel opposite the grassy point previously 

 referred to, a land-locked anchorage will be found with four 

 feet of water at low tide. 



Tuesday morning, turned out at 3 a. si., cooked breakfast, 

 anti got under way at early day, course north and by east for 

 two miles. About two miles north of Pavillion Key I crossed 

 a wide and deep channel running from cast to west. With 

 my glass I noticed what I had reason to believe was high land. 

 1 feel assured that this channel is the outlet of the Pah Kah- 

 hatchee River one of the large streams formed by the ever- 

 glades. Prom this point I steered VVNYV across Gallivans 

 Bay, for Cape Romano. In the light of this bay E by N, 

 li teen miles from Cape Romano, empties Gallivans River. 

 Vignolles examined this stream about the year 1820, and de- 

 scribes it as "a noble stream, with eight feet of water on the 

 bar." He also remarks that it is a "braufifnl stream, with 

 high banks and rich and luxuriant lands on each side. " He 

 likewise states that the river heads in a "lake or large lagoons 

 in. the everglades." Judging from my own observations with 

 a powerful glass, and the statement of Vignollos, the banks of 

 this river present many attractions for the sportsman. 

 The Collins and Roberts, who live fifteen miles to the east- 

 ward of tho mouth of the river, have frequent communication 

 with Key West, and, through these parties, supplies could be 

 obtained. Having read VignoDes 1 book, I became interested 

 in Gallivans River, and have made it a rule to question every 

 coaster I have met in my cruises regarding Gallivans River, 

 and I have yet to find one who has entered it. As with Galli- 

 vans River, so with the rest of the country south of this point 

 —a terra incognito. 



Being unacquained with the navigation of this seel ion, I 

 bore away for Cape Romano, intending to leave it to star 

 board, and enter Big Marco Inlet. If 1 should visit the locality 

 again, instead of rounding Capa Romano, I would steer for 

 the easterly end of lions Island, live miles EN 15 from Cape 

 Romano. On Hons Island will be found a settler named 

 Roberts, who is extensively engaged in the cultivation of 

 bananas and vegetables for the Key West market. By leav- 

 ing Hons Island to port, a deep channel will be found leading 

 to~Marco Inlet, and by following it, nine miles of outside 

 navigation will be uvoided. I reached Cape Sable at 11 

 a. ii., and endeavored to round the point, close to shore, 

 but was disappointed. At the pitch of the cape I found a 

 shoal extending to the S. VV. A heavy sea was rolling in 

 from the N. W., and the du3t was (lying to an unpleasant ex- 

 tent. I stood out to sea and crossed' the shoal a half mile 

 from the land. Having rouuded the sea shoal I encountered 

 a heavy sea, which made tbe motions of the little Doni any- 

 thing but pleasant. One mile and a half north of the cape 

 will be found a pass with a good harbor. Three miles farther 

 north will be noticed Oaximbos Pass with a good entrance, 

 deep water and a land-loeked harbor; and three miles north 

 of this Big Marco Inlet, q'his is a wide inlet with twelve 

 feet of water. If the tide is low and any sea running a shoal 

 will be noticed on each side of the entrance extending a full 

 quarter of a mile to sea. The distance from Cape Romano to 

 Big Marco is only seven and a half miles, witu two harbors, 

 but it is an exposed locality, with ugly shoals, and I would 

 prefer taking the inside route in the future, unless there was 

 no sea running. 



O.ie mile from the entrance I took a right-hand channel for 

 a mile, turned to Ihe right, and, after following it for another 

 mile, 1 sighted Collier's schooner, and landed. Running the 

 boat on the shore, I discovered a well-beaten trail, which I 

 followed, and soon found old man Collier planting cabbages. 

 I received a hearty welcome, and was invited' to malic a 

 lengthy stay on the beautiful island of Marco. I was pleased 

 to find acres of bananas growing with the greatest luxuriance. 

 Immense bunches of lru'it were visible in every direction, but 

 unfortunately, none were ripe. Although it was the middle 

 of November, tomatoes, squashes and pumpkins were in 

 bloom. Not a weed was to be seen, and evmyihing looked 

 prosperous. Mr. Collier owns a beautiful clipper schooner of 

 thirty tons, and markets his productions in Key West. The 

 population 'of Key West is about U.Q0O; the island is almost 

 a barren rock, and everything consumed has to be imported. 

 Hence the productions of more persons than Collier could be 

 sold at tho Key to advantage. 



1 accompanied the old geutlcmau to the house and was 

 urgently requested to make myself at home. The house is a 

 large one, well arranged, and scrupulously clean. For several 

 winters Mr. C. has accommodated a naturalist from Chicago, 

 and could make room for a few more. The island contains 

 about six square miles, and is capable of supporting quite a 

 population. In a direct line this island is but ninety miles' 

 from Key West. Early tomatoes, potatoes and vegetables 

 could be produced and shipped to New York by the Galveston 

 steamers touching at Key \Vest. As far as my observations 

 extended the soil in many places was a deep, dark loam, con- 



taining an excess of vegetable matter, and remarkably pro- 

 ductive. On this island, cocoa nuts, pine-apples, bananas, 

 limes, oranges, lemons, coffee and all the tropical fruits can 

 be cultivated. Tbe climate is cool in Bummer, and the islands 

 in this locality are remarkahle for their salubrity. The land 

 on this and the adjoining islands is open for pre-emption ; 

 and is worthy of the attention of those who are desirous of 

 settling in a mdd, temperate and healthy climate. Adjoining 

 Marco is Hons Island, settled by several parties named 

 Roberts. This island contains about two square miles, and is 

 capable of supporting quite a number of families. Twelve 

 miles from Collier's to the eastward on a small stream will be 

 found a large grove of royal palms— one of two still remaining 

 in tbe State. The waters about Marco abound with mullet, 

 sheepshead, channel bass and tarpon, the latter ranging from 

 50 to 200 pounds. These fighters can be captured by using a 

 float and mullet bait. They are, without any exception, the 

 most powerful, active and artful of the fish family. They 

 have the knack of jumping, nnd while in theair of shakingo. t 

 the hook. With their knife-like jaws they manage to cut off 

 hooks and escape. The best snood is a piece of strong bass 

 wire, or a chain, such as is attached to small-size shark hooks. 

 They are becoming plentiful in the St. Johns river near the 

 bar. Each summer many are hooked, but to land one is the 

 exception. Last summer several of my friends were fishing 

 in the surf on Pcllican bank near the bar. In tbe party was 

 a youth of sweet sixteen. He fastened his line around his 

 waist, entered the surf and threw out his bait ; there was a 

 bite, a yank and the young piscator started seaward ; three 

 friends went to bis rescue, seized the line and walked the fish 

 ashore. They had captured a tarpon weighing eighty pounds. 

 A few weeks since, two friends and self were fishing near the 

 bar for channel bass. B. had a bile, the line went hummiug 

 through his fingers until a hundred yards bad disappeared. 

 Then a tarpon" six feet long was seen in the air, and all was 

 slack— the fish had cut the line. To Ihose who are fond of 

 capturing large fish we would say try tarpon fishing ; for I 

 care not how skilled the piscator may be he will find that he 

 has one of tbe most artful of fish to circumvent. 



1 left Roberts at 4 v m., and before sunset entered Little 

 Marco piss, three miles to the northward. At the entrance I 

 found a shoal on each skin, and tbe channel hugged the right 

 shore. In tbe centre of the entrance was an uprooted man- 

 grove of large 3izo. I anchored a short distance from the 

 mouth of the pass, and, prepared for the night, I looked f or- 

 ward with impatience to the morrow, for I fully expected to 

 be rewarded with a sight of one of the main objects of my 

 cruise— an ancient canal, reported (o exist across the peniusula 

 to the north of Doctor's Pass, the latter being four miles 

 north of my auchoragc. 



From Big Marco to Doctor's Pass a boat passage inside of 

 the islands' will be found, but as I preferred open sailing to 

 mud flats, tortuous channels and oyster bars, 1 kept outside. 

 In rough weather the inside channel might be followed. I 

 questioned the Collier family regarding Doctor's Pass ana the 

 aucieut canal, and was assured that no one in the settlement 

 had ever cutered the pass or heard of the canal. The few 

 who reside on this coast never seem to leave home or become 

 acquainted with their surroundings. 



Wednesday morning, before sunrise, I was under way and 

 steering to the northward with a fair wind. Three miles 

 north of Little Marco I passed a narrow but navigable pass, 

 which the colliers informed me was called John's Pass. One 

 mile and a half to the northward of John's Pass I sighted the 

 promised land aud the entrance to it, Doctor's Pass In ex- 

 planation of the word " pass," which I so frequently use, I 

 may remark that it is used along the coast by residents and 

 coasters instead of the word inlet. To nome it may appear 

 unnecessary to give the distances from pass to pass; but to 

 sportsmen and tourists who are dependent for their safety 

 on small and unseaworthy crafts, snch information is valuable. 

 By possessing such knowledge they will kuow when to seek 

 a harbor andwhere it can be found. The majority of the 

 passes are not shown on any of the maps of the State. 1 

 have compiled from actual surveys a map of two inches to 

 the mile, showing every channel, pass and island from Punta 

 Rassa to Cape Romano ; and the tourist or sportsman can de- 

 pend upon the correctness of my statements regarding dis- 

 tances. 



Doctor's Pass is about eighty feet wide, wi'h six feet of 

 water at low tide. Inside of the entrance, to the right, will 

 be observed a narrow channel, which is the commencement 

 of the inside passage leading to Marco. To the left will be 

 noticed a passage fifteen feet wide, leading into a circular 

 bay 200 feet wide, with four feet of water at low tide. To 

 the west this land-locked bay is separated from the gulf by a 

 narrow sand bank. In all my wanderings I have never met 

 with an anchorage to equal this small but beautiful harbor. 

 Following the pass to the eastward for three-quarters of a 

 mile, it ended in a wide lagoon, one arm extending to the 

 north and the other to the south. At a point half a mile from 

 the gulf the navigation becomes difficult in consequence t f 

 tho existence of shoals and oyster banks, and the explorer 

 must keep to the left as the law directs. The north lagoon is 

 about three miles and a half in length. 



I was anxious to find the ancient canal, and air and sun 

 the contents of the boat. I steered to the north for two miles, 

 when I noticed a monstrous-sized bear take to the water from 

 the left bank. Opposite where the animal left the land the 

 lagoon is divided into two arms by a narrow, projecting point. 



