366 Narrative of a Journey from Soobathoo [No. 125. 



The thermometer in a tent got up so high as 50° during the day, 

 but at 4 p. m. it fell to the freezing point, and at 7 p. m. was 8° below 

 it. We sat up till past 10 for the purpose of making astronomical 

 observations, which in such a temperature was rather an uncomfortable 

 occupation ; our situation indeed in other respects was none of the most 

 agreeable, we had but a scanty supply of firewood, which when kindled 

 in the middle of the tent involved us in smoke, and we were somewhat 

 incommoded by having to share our accommodation, such as it was, 

 with our servants, whilst every now and then we were alarmed by the 

 crash of rocks split asunder by the frost. 



We had all severe headaches during the night, owing probably to the 

 rarefaction of the air, but attributed by the natives to a poisonous plant 

 said to grow most abundantly at the greatest elevations. 



This pass is situate in latitude 31° 23' and longitude 78° 12', it se- 

 parates Choara from Koonawur, another of the grand divisions of 

 Busahir, which lies on both banks of the Sutlej, extending from lati- 

 tude 31° 30' to 32°, and from longitude 77° 53' to 78° 46'. It is a 

 secluded, rugged and barren country, seldom exceeding eight miles in 

 breadth. It is terminated on the north and N. W. by a lofty chain 

 of mountains covered with perpetual snow, upwards of 20,000 feet high, 

 which separates it from Ludak ; a similar range of the Himalayas bound 

 it to the southward ; on the east a pass almost 14,000 feet high divides 

 it from Chinese Tartary ; and on the west lies another of the principal 

 divisions of Busahir. 



The villages, which are elevated from 8,000 to 12,000 feet above the 

 sea, are very thinly scattered, not more than two or three occur in a 

 stage, and sometimes none at all for several days. In the summer 

 season, from the reverberation of the solar rays, the heat in the bed of 

 the Sutlej, and other large streams is oppressive, and quite sufficient to 

 bring to maturity grapes of a delicious flavour, of which raisins and a 

 spiritous liquor called Rakh are made. The inhabitants wear a frock 

 of white blanket, often two-fold, reaching down to the knees, and having 

 sleeves, a pair of trowsers and girdle of the same, a cap of black blanket 

 like a bonnet, and shoes of which the upper part is woollen, and the 

 sole alone leather. The people are very dark and extremely dirty, but 

 they seem to enjoy a much greater degree of comfort in their habita- 

 tions than any of the other mountaineers we have seen. The villages 



