. 1838.] Excursions to the Eastward. 589 



pons. They were overtaken, and proved to be a party of Siamese. A 

 shaven priest of Buddha kept the helm. Recovering from their alarm 

 they shewed us the creek we were looking for. The opening into it 

 through the mangrove trees is very narrow, and might be mistaken for 

 a mere inequality in the general line of jangal. Although we had left 

 the ship at sunrise, we did not reach Thee Riia town until about sun- 

 set. This was owing to the narrowness of the stream which prevented 

 oars being of any use. The heavy ship's boat was towed up by fixing 

 a rope to trees ahead and hauling on it, and by the boatmen dragging 

 it against the current ; they being at the same time up to the neck in 

 water. 



Loany Bam Prong the Siamese officer in charge of the island re- 

 ceived me with much politeness and hospitality in his own house*. His 

 wife, a stout good-humoured dame, of about thirty, immediately set to 

 work in the kitchen to prepare me a supper or rather dinner. The 

 kitchen w r as on the same floor with the apartment allotted to me, and I 

 could perceive the whole process of cookery, which was certainly by 

 no means of that description which could injure the appetite of any 

 traveller of moderate expectations. The dinner, consisting of poultry, 

 eggs and vegetables, was served up in clean China plates and cups, 

 with spoons of china-ware; custards, confections and fruits formed 

 the second course. My host declined partaking of the viands. This 

 was done out of respect, not prejudice ; for after I had dined, the 

 dishes were removed to the next room, where he and his lady, who 

 had cooked an additional dinner, dined. By this time the lower 

 part of the house was full of people. But they behaved with much 

 decorum. They all smoked cigars. The conversation was kept up 

 betwixt the chief and me, accompanied by the flare of dammer torches 

 until past midnight, and during it I could perceive that fealty to the 

 emperor was a thing which lay very lightly on the heart of my com- 

 panion. On our arrival the women were but scantily clothed, their 

 busts being for the most part exposed. Next day, however, they 

 all appeared, with the addition of the phre, which is a long piece of 

 cloth, plain or variegated ; one end of it is put partly wound about the 

 waist, and the remainder is brought over the left shoulder and then car- 

 ried across the breast : they w T ore their hair short. The women bring 

 water from the river in bamboos of ten or twelve feet long closed at 

 one end. They carry them slightly inclined on their shoulders and 

 place them upright against the walls of the houses. This plan is very 



* Built in the usual light style of the country and only distinguishable from 

 the cottages around it by being larger. 



