Febbcakt 10, 1S8L] 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



25 



"Evangeline district,' 1 whose simple legend is forever rescued 

 from oblivion by Longfellow's fiiuious pnein, aud Mr. Ed- 

 wards takes especial pleasure iu answering all questions 

 toueliing this interesting country, and pointing out the 

 places of note. .Host, conductors would have tired of it 

 years ago, and with a wrathful answer turned away p soil 

 question. 



He showed me a letter from Mr. Longfellow, in which the 

 latter says that although he has written this poem, he has 

 never aud probably will never see the land of which he has 

 sung. 



Reaching Windsor at 6:25 (84 miles), we left the train and 

 found our way to the "Victoria Hotel," kept by John Do- 

 ran, The name is large, but the house very small and very 

 ordinary in all respects, though moderately neat and com- 

 fortable. Tt is the '■ best," however. And" right here I will 

 take occasion to remark that nowhere, in all Nova Scotia or 

 New Brunswick is there a single first-class hotel. 



If you find yourself iu a comfortable house, with a fair 

 table, thank yourself you are no worse off. The bouses are 

 invariably small and tables only supplied with a limited as- 

 sortment, while meat, is not as tender as ours and the bread 

 usually coarse and dark. It is no place for epicures. The 

 bright side, however, is, the linen is usually clean, rates very 

 low— from y I to * 1.75 per day — and the people very cour- 

 teous. You are always treated with the utmost considera- 

 tion and respect, and when things are not quite to your 

 liking you feel much like apologising to the landlord and 

 servants for having found them so illy prepared to receive 

 you. I have twice traveled the length of the Proviuees and 

 never yet received a surly reply or discourteous answer from 

 anyone, anywhere, fr.im the highest to the lowest. Under 

 such circumstances a crust of bread even is sweet to the 

 palate. 



We stopped off at Windsor in order to take the "Royal 

 Mail Stage " to Chester, a superb town on the Southern 

 coa3t. We had been advised that it ran Tuesdays and Satur- 

 days, but found it was Wednesdays and Saturdays. We 

 also found that said " Royal Stage " was a one.horsc buggy 

 which might possibly carry two passengers with light bag- 

 gage, so that it, was little matter we missed it. After some 

 tribulation we procured a two-horse wagon with comfortable 

 seats to take us across to Chester, about forty miles, for $ 12. 

 . The route across is right over the backbone of Nova Sco- 

 tia and is mostly up hill all the way. Tuesday morning, 

 Junel, was charmingly sweet, and about 7 a. m. we found 

 our traps packed and ourselves spinning along over a plea- 

 sant road on our "march to the sen." For tenor twelve 

 miles the road is not bad, and the bracing morning air, 

 charming landscape and wooded hills lent, exhilaration to our 

 spirits, and we grew happier under their influences. 



In a couple hours' time we had left, behind nearly all traces 

 of civilization and plunged into the howling wilderness. The 

 road became narrow, rocky and hilly, and our progress slow, 

 but we were happy still. About 2' r. m. we reached Mrs. 

 Redmond's "Half-way House," and stopped for dinner. 

 They had no oats for our horses, but fortunately we had anti- 

 cipated that aud lightened our wagon of a bag of the same. 

 For dinner they gave us bread and milk with raspberry 

 jam. 



After an hour's delay we paid our bill, $1 for men and 

 beast, and resumed our journey. Toward night we sighted 

 " Mahone Bay," upon which Chester is situated, and a love- 

 ly view it was to our eager eyes. At, 7 p. St. we drove up to 

 "Charley Lovett's Hospitable Inn," as dubbed by Hal lock, 

 and were met at the door by " Charley " and his gude wife. 

 Half an hour later we were discussing the day's ride over 

 lobster salad, etc., etc. Chester is a quiet, old-fashioned vil- 

 lage nestled at the border of a beautiful bay, which is dotted 

 with innumerable islands, and has a population of about one 

 thousand souls. It is forty-five miles we-t of Halifax, and 

 affords a delightful resort, for summer boarders, who come 

 here in considerable numbers to enjoy the refreshing breezes 

 from the sea, and lie off in peaceful bliss or employ them- 

 selves in boating, catching torn cods from the wharf or throw- 

 ing the fly for salmon and trout. A daily line of coaches runs 

 each way from Halifax to Lunenburg (west of Chester about 

 twenty-five miles). It has two good inns — Lovett's and one 

 opposite. Lovett's is the' best. There is nothing here in the 

 shape of public buildings ; a small church, one or two small 

 country stores, a lobster factory and post-office make up the 

 assortment. The people are mostly given to fishing, and arc 

 genial and well-disposed. The village is composed of small 

 Unpretending houses in the main, although there are a few 

 of. some pretension. It is situated on rising ground, which 

 slopes pleasantly down to the sea, and on a fair day the pros- 

 pect out upon the bay and ocean is most charming. Green 

 lawns and cultivated grounds give the whole place an aspect 

 of neatness, and the sleepy quiet which always prevails 

 makes one feel that he is indeed in a land of dreams. 



Salmon and trout fishing has been much noted here in the 

 past, but I regret to say that we were disappointed in not 

 finding it what we hoped this spring. Yet it has by no 

 means departed. Last spring and summer salmon were taken 

 in goodly numbers with a fly, but the season this year has 

 been so backward that when we visited here salmon had not 

 commenced running up. It has three good salmon rivers- 

 Gold River, the best, six miles west, has been the finest in 

 the province. It is a beautiful river to gaze upon, and has 

 innumerable pools; but the Indians and natives are so much 

 given to "dipping," in spite of the laws, that salmon have a 

 poor chance to propagate their species. Middle River, four 

 miles west, is counted a good salmon river, and East River, 

 seven miles east, also, and although salmon will continue to 

 be taken on all these rivers in the future, still not in the 

 abundance formerly, till the laws against "dipping" (with 

 nets) are rigidly euforced. Trout, fishing, however, continues 

 to be good, and we enjoyed a day's fine sport on Middle 

 River Branch, about six miles from Lovett's. 



Having experienced, but not exhausted, the lovely charms 

 about Chester, we bid adieu to its quiet and hallowing in- 

 fluences on Saturday, June 5, aud turned our faces toward 

 Halifax— by the " Royal Mail Coach." 



It was a lovely day wheu we bid adieu to the green Blopes 

 of Chester and whirled away from " mine inn "at 11:15 a. 

 m. The. fragrant morning air charged with the incense of 

 the neighboring fields lent a charm to our ride which only 

 the country can give. The road to Halifax though some- 

 what hilly is in good condition, and we found our ride by no 

 means tedious. 



For the first few miles it lies through the wilderness with 

 an occasional opening where farm houses and primitive log- 

 huts greet the eye and protect the settlers from the inclem- 

 encies of the seasons. For a distance of several miles the 

 road skirts along St. Margaret's Bay, when a fine view may 

 be obtained of the ocean and headlands. Changing horses 



twice we reached Halifax at 6:30 r. m., and took our way to 

 the " Halifax House," the ben in the cily. 



Of Halifax 1 shall not write except to say it is a very an- 

 cient city and boast* one of the finest harbors in the world. 

 Having spent Sunday here, visited I he arsenal and gener- 

 ally canvassed the city. On Monday, June 7, atl n. m., we 

 took a train on the Intercolonial R. R. for Truro, sixty-one 

 miles, where we proposed to spend the night and take a view 

 of the village. We arrived there at 4,115, and found com- 

 fortable quarters at Prince of Wales Hotel kept by A. L. 

 McKenzie. We found a court in session, and visited it, and 

 gazed with " awe " upon the gentlemen in robes. The wig, 

 alas ! they had laid aside. 



June 8 "we resumed our journey at 10:55, and at 4:20 we 

 arrived at Monctou, 126 miles, where we tarried to take in 

 the " Bore." " One of the greatest living curiosities in the 

 world," as Barnurn would remark. 



Most of your readers are doubtless aware that the Bay of 

 Fuudy furnishes one of the highest tides in the world. " At 

 times it rises and falls about seventy feet,! The time to see 

 it at perfection is in the Spring, and the place Monctou. Ow- 

 ing to the peculiar formation of the river banks at a point 

 half a mile east of the station, called the Elbow, on the 

 Petitcodiac River, wheu the tide makes up it rushes with al- 

 most frightful velocity during high tides, bearing onward a 

 huge wall of water about six feet in height at a rate of eight 

 or ten miles an hour. It comes in just after low water, and 

 may be heard at a distance of two or three miles. By day- 

 light it may be seen a mile away, and as it approaches "it 

 seems an avalanche nearing you threatening destruction. The 

 lazy current of the river is now seen creeping its sluggish way 

 down to the sea. In a moment the huge volume "of water 

 comes foaming up, and meeting the. current turns its course 

 backward, and rushes past you a roaring cataract. It was 

 this we tarried to see, and saw, as the tide comes in twice in 

 twenty -four boms. We had two exhibitions, one at 9:30 P; 

 m. and one at 10 a. m. The evening performance was the 

 better, although it could not be seen at quite so good an ad- 

 vantage as there was no moon, but it impressed us as one of 

 the wonders of the world, and richly repaid us for our de- 

 lay. 



June 9 we continued our journey leaving at 12:15 i\ m., 

 and reached Newcastle at 0:30 — 78 miles. This is the stop- 

 ping off place for salmon fishing on the Miramiohi. A good 

 hotel, "The Waverley," half a milefromthe station, is reach- 

 ed by a bus which runs to every "train. Newcastle is situ- 

 ated on Miramichi Bay, which is an arm of the Gulf of St. 

 Lawrence. 



Into this bay empties the river of the same name, famous 

 for its salmon. It is a thrifty seaport town of about 1,500 

 inhabitants. Salmon fishing with a fly is only to be enjoyed up 

 river on "North West" and "South "West." Brunce's* "Big 

 Hole" ou the northwest is twenty-three miles from New- 

 castle, reached only by private teun. Stop at, John Hare's 

 log-house ; nice, homely people and coarse fare, but neat aud 

 comfortable. 



The other ground is at "Indiantown," seventeen miles 

 from Newcastle, reached by steamer two or three times a 

 week or private conveyance. Stop at Frank Jardin's, theonly 

 place; comfortable quarters. Both of these places are favor- 

 able for fly fishing for salmon, and fishing free to all. Salmon 

 range from eight to twenty pounds. 



After tea we interviewed the landlord who put us in the 

 way of finding a team to take us to " Big Hole" on the mor- 

 row, and having' closed a bargain for a two horse team for. to 

 per day we spent the evening in sauntering about the village 

 June 10 found us en roiiiafat the fishing grounds. Leaving 

 the hotel about 7 we reached Hare's about 11 a. m. The 

 drive lies along the -Miramichi most of the way aud is a very 

 pleasant drive. It is settled most of the distance, till within 

 five or six miles of Hare's, then houses disappear and woods 

 skirt either side of the way. Taking a hasty lunch of bread 

 and milk we went forth, arrayed in the panoply of fisher- 

 men's gear, and found " Big Hole," a distance of about half 

 a mile. "John" and one of his boys accompanied us. At 

 the "Hole" we found a skiff of sufficient size to carry us 

 all and were paddled half a mile up the branch to the foot 

 of some rapids, where we divided up — part.in the boat and 

 part on shore— and entered zealously into the sport. The 

 trout rose rapidly to our flies and ere the sun had cast her 

 departing Tays upon us we had brought a hundred trout to 

 our landing nets, ranging from a quarter of a pound to two 

 and a half and three pounds. It was tine sport aud keenly 

 enjoyed by all of us. We saw one salmon break the water 

 during the afternoon, but we could not succeed iu raising him 

 to a fly. We were still too early for salmon-fishing and we 

 rested contented with trout. 



About 6 we broke off for the day and found our way back 

 to the house, where a comfortable supper awaited us. 



During the afternoon two gentlemen joined us and, as 

 Hare's is none of the largest, we had close quarters for the 

 night, with Mr. Hare's family of ten. We, however, spread 

 our beds upon the floor and retired at an early hour. It was 

 a muggy night and the mosquitoes put in their bills, which 

 somewhat interfered with sleeping, but we battled them till 

 sleep overpowered our drooping lids, when we left them to 

 present their bills as might please them best aud sank to 

 slumbers sweet. 



Friday, the 1 1 th, was ushered iu with serene sky and 

 balmy breath. Scarce had the early streaks of tnatn "pene- 

 trated our humble log house ere we' were up and doing. Efot 

 having fully undress* d, our toilet was soon finished and, af- 

 ter a hearty breakfast of salt pork, coarse bread and tea, w 

 again repaired to Big Hole and were rewarded with a fine 

 catch of trout. So eager were they for the fly that in a coupl 

 hours' of fishing we had caught all our consciences would 

 suffer us to take and, as the heavens now were becoming 

 overcast, we coucluded to reel up our lines and bid adieu to 

 this charming spot. At 10 a. m. we had stowed our traps 

 aboard, bidden a hearty adieu to Honest John and his ever- 

 faithful wife, scattered a few shillings among his interesting 

 children and taken a last farewell of our forest retreat. 

 About 1 we reached Newcastle again and found a comfortable 

 dinner awaiting us at the " Waverley." At 5:30 we took the 

 accommodation train at the station and soon Newcastle, with 

 its pleasant associations, were lost to sight. 



There were but few passengers aboard, as is usually the 

 case on this train, which consis ed of some thirty Ireight 

 cars, with one passenger car attached. There being rjo 

 " smoker " attach' d, we found our way into the baggage ear, 

 where a few cigars, judiciously distributed, emptied the easy 

 arm chairs of conductor and " all hands " aud we were "at 

 home" to all inquirers. 



In passing, let me remark that though smoking may be a 

 " vile habit," yet its indulgence often paves the way to great, 

 civilities — as we indeed found in this case, We soon knew 



every man ou the train and a jolly time we hail of it to the 

 end. Moral: On mixed trains in I he ".-Suburbs.*' aiways car- 

 ry a full case of cigars. 



At 1 a. M. we arrived at Catnpbeiltori, 107 miles, where 

 the conductor escorted us to the "best hotel" — the Rot al. 

 Here we knocked up the landlord, who, peering through the 

 half-open door, saw the genial face of the conductor and we 

 were at once admitted alltJ ,he llc =' room8 given l>> our party. 

 That the reader may not place too much confidence iu the 

 quality of these Province ho els, let me remark that the best, 

 though comfortable, are very ordinary, but you will always 

 find the proprietors very courteous and obliging and willing 

 to do anything reasonable for your comfort. They, however, 

 lack tact" for keeping a hotel and have no markets, such as 

 the States afford, to furnish a table with. They ar j , however, 

 reasonably neat aud if one is not a dillit&nts he wiO get along 

 very comfortably. 



Campbellton is a thriving seaport village of some O'O in- 

 habitants. It is situate on the southern shore of tin: Hay of 



of St. bfV 



Bay. 



It has 

 Prow- 



fill take 



touch 

 to, for 



full of 

 extent 



Chaleur, formed of the 



three hotels aud is one of the briskest v 



incc and a so t, of headquarters forlmni 



The railroad company have also a po 



here. Two steamers (en routo From Q 



here weekly. A ste oner leaves here i ! 



Gaspe. In the immediate vicinity, 



fresh-water fishing : yet a few hours' r 



good fishing grounds. A lake about sit 



the nicest trout in the Province, which is to a 



preserved. A charge of one dollar per day, li 



ties you to fish it to your heart's content. The. trout average 



from oue to one and a half pounds each, although those 



weighing two and three are not uncommon. 



Across Ihe bay— some twelve miles, reached by sail-boat — 

 is the Scuminac River, one of the most famous trout rivers 

 in the whole Province. Here you can catch trout by the 

 hundred of exceeding size, Ihe average being three to four 

 pounds each, while those weighing seven and eight pounds 

 are by no means uncommon. The seas <n for catching the: 

 however, is 1 »ter than in other parts, beii 

 June, July and August and, let it not t 

 the Hies do inhabit there. All along this 

 are many rivers, oven down as far as Gas 

 the northern shore, and many of them are among' the finest 

 salmon rivers anywhere to be found iu this latitude. Most 

 of them are, however, leased and permits can only be had by 

 the good grace of the lessees. As I have not fished any of 

 them 1 will endeavor not to mislead the reader, but. I was in- 

 formed by r those " well informed " that it is no difficult mat- 

 ter for a email party tp go there and gel a permit for a few 

 days' fishing 



x'Vir sea-trout fishing there is no belter place any where than 

 among the islands six miles above Campbell ton, where Ihe 

 tide waters meet the Restigouche in its march 



t(tli 



• p-rrt of 

 either, 

 I'theru) 



Take a team aud drive tip, or 

 and get off at a flag station i 

 hotel and will give you condl 

 lind genuine Indians— Micma 

 here, who, with their birches 

 aud you can catch more trout 

 the States, ranging in weight 

 pounds each and sometimesfi 

 To this inviting spot we drove 

 our team back and took the ci 

 The. dav was exceedingly w 



the cats, as suits your fancy, 

 icar Mrs. Gillis'. - She keeps a 

 triable quarters . Here you will 

 r-s, a tribe of which is located 

 , will put you on the ground 



than you ever dreamed of in 

 from one-half to three or four 

 fe or si x, though no! frequently, 

 .a on Saturday, the 12th, sent, 

 its home at nightfall. 



rly and the waters, very rough, 



brought home a goodly mess of fish, the largest oi 

 which, taken by our genial fellow-sportsman, Walter" Hub- 

 bard, kicked the beam al, three and a half pounds, and, I beg 

 the reader to note, was taken with a fly, as all of th i mess 

 were. But 1 cannot, dwell ; let it suffice that if oue seeks 

 trout only he can take them with satiety here any season, be- 

 ginning usually from the 10U to 15t.li o"f ,1 nne and through- 

 out the summer. The country is beautiful aud flies not 

 very annoyiug till into July, and eveu then not so bad as in 

 the demer woods, for here, he it remembered, the forest is 

 pretty veil thinned about Campbellton. 



At 7:20 p. M. on this day in question we repaired to the 

 depot and, flinging our pocket-handkerchief to the breeze 

 from tie top of a stick, the train stopped, aud iu thirty 

 minutes more we were again safely housed at. the Hotel Royal 

 discussing the events of the day over a hearty supper, which 

 awaited our coming. 



Sunday, June 13, was a quiet day with us iu this quiet lit- 

 tle fibbing hamlet. The clock struck 9 before we left our 

 comfortable beds. 



The sky was overcast aud a fresh wind blew in upon us 

 from the sea. It was rather too rough lo trust ourselves to 

 a frail birch, otherwise we would have visited the Indian 

 church on the opposite shore and witnessed their form of 

 worship. As it was, we hugged a comfortable lire aud spent 

 the day in reading ami writing. 



Monday, the 14th— alas : our last iu the wilderness— we 

 were up at 6 and, after a hasty breakfast, we bade adieu to 

 our genial landlord, John Sproul, and walked to Ihe station, 

 some oat rods. At 0:30 the train left, and at 7 we reached 

 Metapedia, thirteen miles distant, where we had hoped to 

 crown our desires of salmon fishing; but, alas! we were 

 doomed to disappointment. Wealthy New Yorkers had 

 found this blissful retreat and, with their long purses, had 

 laid an embargo upon all transient fishing here. We knew it, 

 indeed, before we reached here, having itad it painlully brok- 

 en to us e/t route, so the disappointment was not so jen to 

 us, but il was nevertheless a gr at disappoint went. 



Here in this lovely valley, where ihe wafers of the Resli- 

 goucheand Metapedia unite and, mingling their musical v. ices 

 in harmonious accord as they course onward toward the sea, 

 three years ago, I spent one of the pkasanl.est, days of my 

 sportsman's life. Here I cast the gaudy fly and capturedmy 

 first salmon, thrilling with that intense excitement, known 



only to the true sportsman and 

 overlooking one of the loveliest 5 

 [nee, stands Frascr's inviting holt 

 but that of a wealthy knot of nab 

 Ihem no disrespect, but I do feel 

 cause one man's purse is a trifle b 

 should monopolize the wilderness 

 livery true sportsman is willing i 

 for the privilege of trying for salt 

 far distant when the tired and ov< 

 deuied this health-giving sport, ft 



gler. Ou 1 1: 



allium pools 



;all\ 



north shore, 

 in the Prov- 

 his no longer, 

 laed. lineun 

 rong that be- 

 jther's that lie 

 cily "sites." 

 iable/« diem 

 >u, but the day seems not. 

 worked "eilizen " will be 

 afford topaj $3 o 



l'''y 



$300 a year for a lease and, like ih i poor Indian, he is 

 driven from his fishing grounds, for no sooner docs a river 

 develop a goodly pool lhau it is " leased," and if the man of 

 moderate means would try his skill he must do it under the 

 fatigue of long " carries " into the denser wilderness. I had 

 a long talk with our old friend Daniel Eraser, the former 



