510 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



[Jtjlt 28, 1881 



When you arrive at St. John, at the mouth of the Alle- 

 ga<ui, you turn your face eastward and follow the northern 

 boundary of Maine till you nearly reach Grand Falls. The 

 St. John— it will be noted by consulting the map— divides 

 Maine from Canada, and the reader can readily trace the 

 course we took by reference to a large map of Maine. The 

 best small map on a large scale for this purpose is that con- 

 tained in Hubbard's Summer Vacations at Moosehead, but 

 that leaves you near the foot of Square Lake, so the writer 

 hereof was obliged to produce one of his own drafting to make 

 his observations intelligently. I am informed, however, that 

 one is being prepared by the aid of guides at Moosehead, and 

 others familiar with this route, which will soon be pub- 

 lished. 



I have now given a summary of the trip we took, and if 

 the reader will bear with me I will give it more in detail. 

 For several years the writer had contemplated this inviting 

 excursion through the heart of Maine, but other trips had 

 been given the preference, and not till this spring was it ac- 

 complished. 



Our party consisted of ten — five sportsmen and five guides 

 (and, by the way, it ought not to be attempted without one 

 guide to each man, as In quick water it is both easier and 

 safer), Geo. H. Wilcox, F. S. Stevenson, W. R. Mackay, N. 

 A, Roberts and the writer constituted the sportsmen, while 

 Captain Samuel Cole, John F. Hildreth, Ned. Leiney, Alf. 

 Routine and Joe. Miuiroe were our guides. Capt. Cole and 

 Hildreth are twoof the best guides at Moosehead, thoroughly 

 intelligent, experienced boatmen, sober, honest, industrious 

 and faithful. There is no water they are uot familiar with, 

 and none so rough they cannot run it if any one can. The 

 "set of waer," "undertows " and actions of currents are to 

 them familiar playthings. 



Ned and A f red also, are both skillful canoemen, under- 

 stand thoroughly the set of water, and are faithful guide--, 

 but they lack discipline. They arc willing and cheerful 

 workers, without a lazy hone in their bodies, and will do all 

 you in reas n ask of them ; both are French. Ned, by the 

 Way, is one of the best cooks I ever met in the wilderness, as 

 his light and puffy biscuits attested at nearly every meal we 

 took in the woods. At chowder he is hard to heat. Joe, 

 also French, is a fair boatman, but is too generous to succeed 

 well as a guide. He allowed the other guides to do most of 

 the weak, and yet, he never complained^ His eating quali- 

 ties, too, I must not pass without remark. He was always 

 first at the table and the last to leave it, until it grew a won- 

 der how so small a body could contain so much. He never 

 complained of the cooking, hut ate right and left everything 

 that came within his reach. 



Our par y left Boston al 7 p. M. May 22, by the Eastern 

 Railroad. We procured comfonablo berths in the sleeper, 

 and at 5:45 a. m reached Baugor without event. A free 

 coach took us 10 the Penobscot Exchange, about a mile aud 

 a half, where we got a comfortable breakfast for fifty cents. 



At 7:30 the train left on the B. & P. K. R. for Blanchard, 

 seventy-five miles distant, aud the preaeut terminus of the 

 railroad, thus allowing an hour and three-quarters for break- 

 fast. 



On board was a noisy gang of loggers partially crazed with 

 bad whisky. One cut up a "dido," wheu the plucky little 

 brakeman appeared before the scene, aud, quicker than 1 can 

 write it, he jerked him from his seal aud shot htm into me 

 baggage car. Al. this another made faces when he returned, 

 but he, planting himself before him, with his arms folded, 

 cowed him into silence. The act was heroic in the face of 

 some, twenty r ughs and only some dozen passengers, hence 

 I note it, as every passenger chimed approval. Without 

 other event we reached Blanchard at f 1:40 a. m., where we 

 got a comfortable dinner for forty cents. No Village is here, 

 but only a few scattered houses. About 12:15 we resumed 

 our journey bv stage over a rough and hilly road, reaching 

 Greenville, twelve miles distant, at 3:30 v. m.. 



We are now in the land of our dreams. Soft vespers 

 whisper to us from over the lake. Stretching forty miles to 

 the northward Moosehead is before us in its matchless 

 beauty, dotted here aud there with solitary islands, with suf- 

 ficient coil to maintain a re-pcctable growth of trees and 

 lesser verdure. In its translucent waters both lake and spot- 

 ted trout are very abundant, and sadly indifferent must that 

 sportsman be who cannot raise many victims to his lly. At 

 Greenville are two good hotels, the Eveleth House and Lake 

 House. The former stands upon a little eminence overlook- 

 ing the lake and presents the. more desirable location, while 

 its landlord is a thorough sportsman, very social, and at- 

 tends thoroughly to the welfare of his guests. Terms, $2 

 per day ; less by the week. The Lake House, a few rods 

 below, sets a good table and affords satisfaction to its guests, 

 but the writer, always having tied up to the former, had no 

 reason to regret it, hence our party went there on this oc- 

 casion. 



At Greenville we met our guides, f grasped the honest 

 palm of Capt. Cole, our chief, the loader of his craft and the 

 owner of thirty boats, and it was not long before we were 

 all busy making ready for t be voyage. We chartered his big 

 sailboat, the Challenge, secured Caot Orlando G. Barrows 

 as akipper and extra cook, patched our birches, and ere night- 

 fall were in sailing order. A good supper, followed by a 

 cheerful fire on the hearth, set our tougues a- wagging, and 

 we spun our yarns over our pipes in the '^cheerful glow of 

 the evening firelight. 



On the morrow, May 24, we were up bright and early, and 

 soon after breakfast we hoisted sail and headed up the lake. 

 Two of our canoes were inverted upon deck aud three were 

 dragged behind. It was a beautiful day, and the wind soon 

 fell oil' to a dead calm, and at noon we had only made 



LhDGK ISLAND, 



two acd one-half miles up the lake, where we disembarked, 

 and Orlando got us up a right good chowder. About two 

 o'clock a light breeze sprang up and we set out again, but it 

 was puffy all the afternoon, and it was not till six V. u. that 

 we reached 



Wilson's outlet, 

 twelve miles from Greenville. While the cook was getting 

 supper we took our canoes and paddled down to the dam for 

 trout. A large boom of logs choked up the harbor, through 

 which a narrow passage only was left. The water was very 

 high and came through the partly open sluices with a mighty 

 rush. Imo the seething current we cast our flies, and, after 

 about an hour's fishing, we bore away some dozen fine trout. 

 The largest was taken by Stevenson on a fly and weighed 

 3Hbs. Returuiug to our boat, we made a hearty supper off 

 fried trout, hot biscuit with maple sjrup, etc,, and, after a 

 jolly smoke around the camp fire, we rolled ourselves up in 

 our blankets and dropped off to sleep in the ship's cabin. 

 On the. following morning, 35th, we awoke to find a stiff 



breeze blowing and a choppy sea, Soon after breakfast 

 we were under way, but a stiff head wind checked our prog- 

 ress, and it was not until noon that we reached 



BPENOKR NARROWS, 



at the head of Spencer Bay, ou the east shore. In and about 

 the bay is some of the best fishing on the lake. We made 

 camp under the lee and indulged in another of those fine 

 chowders of O's getting up. In the afternoon we took our 

 birched and fished about the shores and in the narrows, and 

 altogether made a good catch of fish. Toward night we 

 made for the mouth of 



LU0K1' BROOK, 



on the west shore of Spencer Bay,' about two miles north 

 from the narrows. Here is a comfortable log camp built by 

 our chief, Capt. Sam, capable of accommodating five or six 

 persons. After supper we whiled away the eve at a social 

 game of "auction pitch," not forgetting our briar woods, to 

 the music of the night wind, which blew sharply without 

 and whistled through the crevices of our camp. As we had 

 booked for all the spare rooms in the "Lucky Hotel," our 

 guides sought accommodations in the boat's cabin at. the hour 

 of retiring, and thus ended our second day at sea. 



The next morning we got under way right after breakfast, 

 and before noon had recrossod the lake aiid moved our boat 

 at the 



WEST OPT LET, 



seventeen miles up lake. At times fish-insr is very fine here, 

 but wc met with little success, and after dinner we again 

 hoisted sail and made for 



MOOSE RIVER, 



on the west shore, twenty-two miles up the lake and nearly 

 apposite Mt. Kineo, where we hoped to fiud good fishing, as 

 it is favorite ground; but we found the river choked with 

 logs and no fishing, so we again hoisted the main sheet, set 

 our jib and steered for 



MT. K1NKO, 



nearly due east from Moose River and half way up the lake. 



Our guides (except Captain Coles) took two birches and 

 paddled up to Baker Brook ; we. reached Kineo House 

 towards night, and tied up there till morning. We found 

 a gang of joiners busy about, new premises, putting on an 

 addition to the new hotel, and things somewhat confused, 

 but we got along comfortably and received courteous atten- 

 tion. 



The following morning we visited the storehouse, added 

 somewhat to our stores of edibles, and at 8 a. m. were joined 

 by our guides, and, bidding adieu to our host, headed for 



UtiCK OOVB, 



on the east shore twleve miles north of Kineo. Agood breeze 

 took us to this famous fishing ground in about two hours, 

 and we moored our craft to i.iie main land and went ashore. 

 While skipper was preparing dinner we look our birches 

 and went after ti'Out .; we visited the mouth of a small brook 

 which empties into the east end of the cove and made a fine 

 catch of brook trout, the largest weighing 2;,' pounds, being 

 taken by the writer. After dinner we again crossed the lake 

 and made 



mt.DKKTn's OAMP, 

 near the mouth of William's Stream, on the west shore, and 

 about thirteen miles north of Kineo. Hildreth's Camp, 

 named after our guide, is the neatest aud most comfortable 

 camp that ever fell to the lot of the writer. John built it, 



bunks, has too good stoves, a large window and is perfectly 

 tight. It will accommodate twelve or fifteen comfortably, 

 and mote on a pinch. We spent a very ple.isant night here, 

 and left it with regret in the morning. 



It was May 28 when we bade adieu to Johnny's camp. 

 Previous thereto wc. held >\ council of war, and decided to 

 leave four of our birches at Moosehead, and take a bateani 

 down river. S i we sailed up to N E. Carry, where wc 

 found one and succeeded in hiring it. Taking it in tow we 

 made for N W. Carry, some six or eight miles distant. 



Here civilization fairly ends, and Nature is supreme Not 

 nnny linger here, even for a short stay, for there is nothing 

 to tempt one to delay. No scenery, no fishing, no charming 

 walks are here ; uo bays with sandy beaches, no pebbles, no 

 shells, no— nothing. Into the dreary, forbidding wilderness, 

 With its giaut and wierd trunks, travelers look aed shudder, 

 saying, " Let's go back." Not so the true sportsman. To 

 him they ate whispering pines aud hemlocks and fragrant 

 balsams'. Under their towering shadows abide the moose 

 and the caribou, and leap the startled deer at the crack 

 of the sportsman's rifle. In the waters beyond, tracking 

 their sinuous ways beneath the overhanging branches, leap-, 

 ing boldly from ledge to rock, and plunging madly down 

 their rocky beds, are the wary trout the sportsman would 

 lure from the foaming cataract or eddying pool. But take 

 thought. If you go hence, you must rough, U. For the next 

 two hundred or more miles there are uo hotels or convey- 

 ances, not even a public highway. No doctors nor surgeons 

 in case of sickness or accident, and, after the first forty miles 

 are passed, not a loaf of bread to be had for love or money. 

 You must go provided for, or trust to your rifle and rod. 



But 1 stray from my text. I would" indicate to the reader 

 the route. Take a map of the State of Maine and you can 

 readily trace it. Leaving Moosehead, a portage of two miles 

 and twenty rods takes you to the 



WEST HHAN0II Of 'I'UE PKSOU900T 



Upon the south bank (the river flows easterly) is a com- 

 fortable bouse kept by Joe Morris, where travelers will al- 

 ways find welcome. " From Savages' acros3 to Morris' is a 

 good road and both Savage and Morris always have teams in 

 readiness to take parties across with boats and luggage. We 

 reached the Northwest Carry about noon aud lunched, to 

 save time. We saw our butewi. safely lied to the wagon, our 

 two birches securely loaded and smaller freight packed away in 

 the remaining space, heartily grasped the hand of Orlando, our 

 skipper, bade him a sorrowful good-bye aud set out on foot 

 for the river beyond. 



Arriving there we met a Mr. Spencer, a river driver just in 

 from a drive with a brand new bateau, which our hearts did 

 covet, and ere we had unshipped the one hired we struck a 

 bargain for its purchase at $37.50, sent the other back aud 

 quickly the uew one was laden with our own cargo. Two of 

 our guides, Ned and Joe, manned the birches, with two of 

 ,Mir jiarty f"r [-aKseneers jin ,,-oie iijui lug,'-'---;'*, while die 

 rest of us took passage aboard the bateau with the remaiuder 

 of the luggage. Capt. Sam took the stern and acted as steers- 

 man, while John served as bowman. 



About 4 P. m. we waived adieu to Morris' farm, , lit our 

 pipes and, throwing ourselves lazily upon our backs, with 

 the soft side of a satchel for a pillow, glided merrily with the 

 current to the measured strokes of our paddles. 



Perhaps, as our boats are quietly gliding their way down 

 the busy current, a description of a bateau may not be amiss. 



These crafts are of various sizes, but usually about thirty feet 

 long by five to six feet breadth of beam and about three feet 

 deep, sharp at both ends, the sides flare and the bottom is 

 fiat. They are used principally upon the rivers for driving 

 logs, are strongly built and good sea boats on lake or river, 

 will carry from eight to twelve men aud stand hard knocks. 

 They are usually manned by four oarsmen, sternman aud bow- 

 man in log-driving and afford a safe retreat for the logger 

 who finds a " jam " going out, and looks to some safe place 

 to spring to. Believing it would afford us ease in shifting 

 from a confined position in a birch, we determined upon try- 

 ing the experiment. To those unfamiliar with a birch let 

 me remark, that although one of the most enjoyable of crafts, 

 it is at the sitae time " cranky" and will not tolerate hazing 

 about. One must keep it trim or he is sure to get spilled. 

 Three miles from the Carry 



LOBSTKK BROOK 



empties into West Branch from ttie south. We reached this 

 point in about forty-five minutes, and pitched our tent for 

 the night for the first time. , At times fishing is good here, 

 but we met with little success, and so drew upon our stores 

 for supper, which consisted principally of canned baked 

 beans, and which, by the way, are among the best, things to 

 take to the woods. The night was raw and chilly, aud our 

 blankets and heavy ulsters were brought into requisition and 

 proved very desirable. 



May 9. — The following morning we resumed our journey. 

 An hour-and-a-half's sail took us to 



MOOSEnORN, 



six miles, which empties into the river on the south bank. 

 Two miles further down and we came to 



EAGM1 IT 



on the north bank. After leaving Moosehorn you encounter a 

 long stretch of deadwaLer, which continues much of the way 

 till you reach 



KOOKY lill'B. 



five miles below Ragmuff. Now you encounter the first 

 quick water on your route. The pitch is some twenty rods 

 long, and plunges rapidly down a rocky declivity, foaming 

 and seething amid scattered boulders and sharp ledges which 

 thrust their ugly noses above the quickening current. To a 

 skillful boatman, however, the passage, is perfectly safe, as 

 there is plenty of water aud several wide channels, any of 

 which can be run without difficulty. Scarcely were we with- 

 in the boiling rapids ere we were out again. Like an arrow 

 from the bow you shoot the Rips, tingling with excitement, 

 and recover your breath in calmer waters below. V'ou are 

 now within a mile of 



PINE STREAM FALLS, 



somewhat shorter, bnt more difficult of navigation usually, as 

 being more thickly studded with sharp rocks, having a nar- 

 rower bed aud a sharper pitch of water In low water the 

 current plunges with a maddening rush through narrow chan- 

 nels, and woe be it to the boat that misses one and goes upon 

 the rocks. 



On the present occasion, however, the water in 'Suncook 

 Lake, three miles below, was very high and set back as far 

 as the falls, hence not a rock was visible, and nothing but a 

 swift current at this poiut indicated the location of the falls. 

 Upon the north bauk of the river at the falls is a big ledge, 

 above which we tied up for dinner. 



Being out of fresh fish, some of the party rigged up their 



SuCoeea. In a short time ,1 birj>'e catch was made of a very 

 superior quality of spotted trout, with meat like a salmon, 

 which, fried brown in Indian meal, we found exceedingly 

 palatable. 



After dinner we again packed up, ran the falls and in less 

 than an hour 



OUKBtlNO >OK LAJiE 



gladdened our vision. A heavy wind was blowing from the 

 east, so we did not visit the settlement which lies about a 

 half a mile due south on the west shore, nor the farm ou the 

 opposite shore. We turned our balmtt due north with one 

 of the canoes, while Sam and John took the other and went 

 to the farm for a few stores. 



About 4 e. m. we reached the north end or head of the 

 lake, and found our way up Caucogomoc River about three- 

 quarters of a mile to 



OATTC'OOOMOC) FALLS, 



where we pitched our tent for the night. We fouud trout 

 quite plenty, and took a fine mess for supper, averaging from 

 1 to 2 lbs. each. 



An incident trauspired while, we were sitting upon the 

 bank of the stream which seems worthy of note. The black 

 lies were quite plenty, and somewhat annoying, and as we 

 were eugaged in brushing them away, a small bird, with red 

 aud gold feathers, alighted upon the shoulder of one of our 

 party, and picked off the fbes as fast as he could swallow 

 them, showing not the least alarm as we moved about. After 

 a few moments he would fly away, and again return, alight- 

 ins this time upon some one else. This he did many times, 

 uiit.il he had li shied upon every member of the parly. He 

 would run up and flown our legs, arms and bodies, aud 

 thrust his little bill down our necks after flies We noticed 

 he could not shut his bill, as he kept it open all this while 

 so we caught him and examined it, but nothing seemed 

 broken or out of place. We let him io again, and he returned 

 several times after that, till finally he flew away and returned 

 no more None of the guides ever saw anything like this 

 before, and 1 am sure our party never did. He was too far 

 away lioni civilization to have once been a pet, one would 

 suppose. What is the solution thinks the reader? 



George A. Fay. 



A MINNESOTA RESORT. 



Detroit, Mins., July 32, 1831. 

 For the benefit of those seeking a place in which to hunt 

 and fish I will state that we challenge the world lo produce 

 fishing facilities that exceed ours. To catch all the fish one 

 can carry is but an hour's work. Pike, black, rock and Oswego 

 buss pickerel, and sun-tish prevail. Hunting m the tall is 

 immense. We have hundreds of small lakes and ric&heds 

 within the radius of two or three miles. On the prairies and 

 in the stubble in the fall geese and chickens swarm. Splen- 

 did places for camping and accommodations good. I would 

 be pleased to give any directions to parties wishing to learn 

 further of this country, situated in Northwestern Mmnesoti, 

 ou the Northern Pacific Railroad. H. P. Hamilton. 



Why Should It Not ?-Chicago, July % 1SS1.— It is only 

 justice to vou.batwe should say that our advertisement m 

 your paper $ays us better than any medium we have yet 

 tried.— Yours, veiy truly, Thob. Kane & Co. 



