1839.] Capt. Pemberton's Mission to Bootan, 1837-38. 211 



was decently ornamented, and set off in particular by some well 

 executed Chinese religious figures, the chief of which we were told 

 represented the Dhurma Rajah, whose presence even as a carved block 

 was supposed to give infallibility. We were besides regaled with 

 blasts of music. His house was the most picturesque one that I saw, 

 and had some resemblance, particularly at a distance, to the represen- 

 tations of some Swiss cottages. It was comparatively small, but as he 

 was of inferior rank, his house was of inferior size. 



The Soobah soon returned our visit, and in all his actions evin- 

 ced friendship, and gentlemanly feeling; and we soon had reason to 

 find that among his superiors at least we were not likely to meet 

 with his like again. His followers were not numerous, nor, with the 

 exception of one or two who had dresses of scarlet broad-cloth, were 

 they clothed better than ordinarily. 



The population of the place must be considerable ; it was during 

 our stay much increased by the Kampa people, who were assembling 

 here prior to proceeding to Hazoo. Most of the inhabitants are pure 

 Booteas ; many of them were fine specimens of human build, certainly 

 the finest I saw in Bootan : they were, strange to say, in all cases 

 civil and obliging. 



Cattle were tolerably abundant, and principally of that species 

 known in Assam by the name of Mithans ; they were taken tolerable 

 care of, and picketed in the village at night : some, and particularly 

 the bulls, were very fine, and very gentle. Ponies and mules were not 

 uncommon, but not of extraordinary merits. Pigs and fowls were 

 abundant. 



The chief communication with the plains is carried on by their 

 Assamese subjects, who are almost entirely Kucharees: they bring 

 up rice and putrid dried fish, and return with bundles of manjistha. 



On the 23rd, after taking a farewell of the Soobah, who gave us the 

 Dhurma's blessing, and as usual decorated us with scarfs, we left 

 for Rydang, the halting house between Dewangari and Kegumpa, 

 and distant eight miles from the former place. We reached it late in 

 the evening, as we did not start until after noon. We first descended 

 to the Deo-Nuddee, which is 800 or 900 feet below the village, and 

 which runs at the bottom of the ravine, of which the Dewangari ridge 

 forms the southern side, and we continued ascending its bed, almost 

 entirely throughout the march. 



The river is of moderate size, scarcely fordable however in the rains ; 

 it abounds with the fish known to the Assamese by the name of 

 Bookhar, and which are found throughout the mountain streams of 

 the boundaries of the province. They, like all others, are considered 



