216 Capt. Pembertoris Mission to Bootan, 1837-38. [March, 



A few days after our arrival we had an interview with the Soobah, 

 on the open spot in front of our residence. On this he had caused to 

 be pitched a small silken pavilion, about half the size of a sipahis' paul. 

 He came in all possible state, with about thirty armed followers, pre- 

 ceded by his state band, which consisted of a shrill clarionet and a 

 guitar, (guiltless of sound) a gong and a bell, ponies, a Tartar* dog, 

 gentlemen of the household, priests, all assisted in forming a long string 

 which advanced in single file. 



He was polite and obliging, and maintained his rank better than 

 any other of the Soobahs we saw. After the interview, at the end of 

 which presents of decayed plantains, papers of salt, scarfs, and strips 

 of coarse blaifket were returned, we were treated with music and 

 dancing women, who only differed from their compeers of India in 

 being elderly, ugly, very dirty, and poorly dressed. The spectators 

 were then seated on the ground and regaled with rice and chong. 



On his departure the noise far exceeded that attending on his 

 advent. Shrieks and outcries rent the air, the musketoons made 

 fearful report, and, in fact, every one of the followers, of sufficiently 

 low rank, made as much noise as he could. The most curious parts 

 of the ceremony were, — the manner in which they shuffled the Soobah 

 off and on his pony ; the mode in which the ponies' tails were tied up ; 

 and the petition of the head of the priests for at least one rupee. 



It was here that we first heard of the deposition of the old Deb, 

 and the consequent disturbances. 



Feb. bth. Punctually on the day appointed by the Soobah 

 did we leave this place, and descended by a precipitous path to the 

 Monass, which we crossed by a suspension bridge, the best and largest, 

 I suspect, in Bootan. The bed of this river, which is of large size 

 (the banks which are mostly precipitous being sixty or seventy yards 

 asunder) and of great violence is 1300 feet below Benka. We then 

 commenced ascending very gradually, following up the north side of 

 the ravine, until we reached Nulka: the march was a very short 

 one. The country was perhaps still more barren than any we had 

 hitherto seen, scarcely any vegetation but coarse grasses occurring. 

 Near Nulka the long leaved pine recommenced. We passed two 

 miserable villages scarcely exceeded by Nulka, in which we took up 

 our abode. No cultivation was to be seen, with the exception of a 

 small field of rice below Nulka. 



Feb. 0th. We descended to the Monass, above which Nulka is situ- 

 ated 6 or 700 feet, and continued along its right bank for a consider- 

 able time, passing here and there some very romantic spots, and one or 

 two very precipitous places. On reaching a large torrent, the Koollong, 





