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1839.] Capt. Pemberton's Mission to Bootan, 1837-38. 227 



of the nearest mountains, that it might be knocked down by rolling 

 rocks upon it. It is defended by an outwork about 400 feet above. 



The surrounding country is uninteresting, the vegetation consisting 

 of a few low shrubs and some grasses : of the former the most common 

 are a species of barberry, and a hitherto undescribed genus of llama- 

 melidce. No woods can be reached without ascending 12 or 1500 feet. 

 Barley was the chief cultivation we saw, but the crops alternated 

 with rice, which is here cultivated, as high as 6800 feet. In the 

 gardens attached to the cottages, or rather huts, we observed the 

 almond and pear in full blossom : the only other trees were two or 

 three weeping cypresses and willows, and a solitary poplar. 



Our reception was by no means agreeable. I was roared to most 

 insolently to dismount while descending to the castle; our followers 

 were constantly annoyed by the great man's retainers ; and, in fact, 

 we got no peace until we had an interview with the Pillo on the 15th. 

 Before the arrival of this personage, who had just succeeded to office, 

 great efforts were made to bring about an interview with the ex-Pillo, 

 and a stoppage of supplies was actually threatened in case of refusal. 

 The firmness of Capt. Pemberton was however proof against all this. 



It had been previously arranged that the former Pillo, the uncle of 

 the present one, should be admitted at this interview on terms of 

 equality ; this kindness on the part of the nephew being prompted 

 probably by the hopes of securing his uncle's presents afterwards. We 

 were received with a good deal of state, but the apartment in which 

 the meeting took place was by no means imposing, or even well orna- 

 mented. The attendants were very numerous, and mostly well- 

 dressed, but the effect of this was lessened by the admission of an in- 

 discriminate mob. We were not admitted however into the presence 

 without undergoing the ordeals which many orientals impose on those 

 who wish for access to them. 



We were most struck with the difference in appearance between the 

 old and new Pillos : the former was certainly the most aristocratic 

 personage we saw in Bootan ; the latter, a mean looking, bull-necked 

 individual. A novel part of the ceremony consisted in the stirring 

 up of a large can of tea, and the general recital of prayers over it, 

 after which a ladleful was handed to the Pillos, who dipped their fore- 

 finger in it, and so tasted it. 



The meeting passed off well ; and afterwards several less cere- 

 monious and more friendly meetings took place. We took leave 

 on the 22nd. This interview was chiefly occupied in considering 

 the list of presents, which the Pillo requested the British Government 

 would do themselves the favour of sending him. He begged most 



