1839.] Capt. Pemberton's Mission to Bootan, 1837-38. 231 



light, although the experience of Tongsa ought to have taught us 

 better, disappointed all of us dreadfully. For in the first place I saw a 

 miserable village, promising little comfort as respects accommodation, 

 and one glance at the surrounding country satisfied me that little was 

 to be done in any branch of natural history. For a narrow, unfruit- 

 ful valley, hemmed in by barren hills, on which no arboreous vege- 

 tation was to be seen, except at considerable elevation, gave no great 

 promise of botanical success. 



On reaching the quarters which had been provided for us, and 

 which were situated in front of the palace, we were much struck with 

 the want of care and consideration that had been shewn, particularly 

 after the very long notice the Booteas had received of our coming, and 

 the pressing invitations sent to meet us. 



These quarters had evidently been stables, and consisted of a 

 square enclosure surrounded by low mud walls. Above the stalls 

 small recesses, scarcely bigger than the boxes which are so errone- 

 ously called a man's " long home," had been made for our special 

 lodgements ; that of the huzoor, Captain Pemberton, was somewhat 

 larger, but still very much confined. Having added to these a roof 

 formed of single mats, an oppressive sun, and a profusion of every 

 description of vermin, Gapt. Pemberton determined on renting quarters 

 in the village, and this, owing to his liberality, was soon accom- 

 plished ; and from the two houses we occupied did we alone obtain 

 comfort among the numerous annoyances we were doomed to ex- 

 perience during our lengthened stay. 



The capital of Bootan is for pre-eminence, miserable. The city itself 

 consists of some twelve or fifteen houses, half of which are on the 

 left bank of the river, and two-thirds of which are completely ruinous, 

 and the best of these ' Capital ' houses were far worse than those at 

 Phain or Santagong. &c. Around the city, and within a distance of a 

 quarter of a mile, three or four other villages occur, all bearing the 

 stamp of poverty, and the marks of oppression. 



The palace is situated oil a flat tongue of land formed by the con- 

 fluence of the Matchien and Patchien rivers. To the west it is quite 

 close to the west boundary of the valley, the rivers alone intervening. 

 It is a very large building, but too uniform and too heavy to be im- 

 posing: it is upwards of 200 yards in length, by perhaps 80 in 

 breadth. Its regal nature is attested by the central tower, and the 

 several coppered roofs of this. 



The only cheering objects visible in this capital, are the glorious 

 Himalayas to the north, and a Gylong village 12 or 1500 feet above the 

 palace to the west ; elsewhere all is dreary, desolate looking, and hot. 



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