232 Capt Pembertoris Mission to Bootan, 1837-38. [March, 



During the first few days of our stay, and indeed until our interview 

 with the Deb, we were much annoyed by the intruding impertinence 

 and blind obstinacy of his followers. They were continually causing 

 disputes either with the sentries or our immediate followers, and it 

 was only by repeated messages to the palace, stating the probable 

 consequence of such a system of annoyance, that Captain Pemberton 

 succeeded in obtaining any respite. 



After many delays, we were admitted to the Deb's presence on the 

 9th. Leaving our ponies, we crossed the bridge built over the Patchien, 

 which was lined with guards, and defended by some large, wretchedly 

 constructed wall pieces. We then entered a paved yard, and thence 

 ascended by some most inconvenient stairs to the palace, the entrance 

 to which was guarded by a few household troops dressed in scarlet 

 broad cloth. We then crossed the north quadrangle of the palace, 

 which is surrounded with galleries and apartments, and was crowded 

 with eager spectators, and ascending some still more inconvenient, or 

 even dangerous stairs, reached a gallery, along which we proceeded 

 to the Deb's receiving room, which is on the west face of the palace : 

 at the door of this the usual delays took place, these people supposing 

 that their importance is enhanced by the length of delay they can 

 manage to make visitors submit to. 



The Deb, who was an ordinary looking man, in good condition, 

 received us graciously, and actually got up and received his Lord- 

 ship's letter standing; the usual conversation then took place by means 

 of interpreters, and the Deb having received his presents, and presented 

 us with usual plantains, ghee, and some walnuts, dismissed us ; and 

 this was the first and last time I had the honour of seeing him, as 

 I was indisposed at the time of our leaving. To return, the room was a 

 good sized one, but rather low ; it was supported by well ornamented 

 pillars, hastily hung with scarfs and embroidered silk. The most 

 amusing part of the ceremony was that exhibited by the accountant 

 general's department, who were employed in counting and arranging 

 courie shells— really emblematic of the riches of the kingdom— ap- 

 parently with no other aim than to re-count, and re-arrange them, yet 

 they were very busily engaged in writing the accounts. A day or two 

 after, our interview with the Dhurma took place. He received us in 

 an upper room of the quadrangular central tower : while we were in 

 his presence we remained standing, in compliment to his religious 

 character. The Dhurma Rajah is a boy of eight or ten years old, and 

 good looking, particularly when the looks of his father, the Tungso 

 Pillo, are taken into consideration. He sat in a small recess, lighted 

 chiefly with lamps, and was prompted by a very venerable looking, 



