1839.] Capt. Pemberton's Mission to Bootan, 1837-38. 237 



After leaving Panga no villages were passed, and one small one 

 only was seen on the opposite bank of the Teemboo ; but up to the 

 above mentioned place the country continued tolerably populous. 

 The vegetation, until the ascent was commenced, was a good deal like 

 that about Somnoo, Pinus excelsa forming the predominant feature. 

 From the base of the ascent it became completely changed — oaks 

 forming the woods, and from 7500 feet upwards, various rhododendrons 

 occurring in profusion, mixed with wild currants, &c. We were de- 

 tained at Chupcha for two days, at the end of which the last coolies had 

 scarcely arrived : it is ten miles from Somnoo,, and sixteen miles from 

 Panga, and about 8100 feet in elevation, The greatest ascent, and this 

 too after a march of twelve miles, must have been between 2500 and 

 3000 feet. We were lodged comfortably in the castle, although it 

 was not white- washed, nor had it the insignia of a belt of red ochre. 

 It is a short distance from the village, which again is two or three 

 hundred yards to the west of the direct road. We thought Chupcha a 

 delightful place : the scenery is varied, the temperature delightful, 

 varying in doors from 46° to 52° 



The face of the mountain although very steep, is about the castle 

 well cultivated : the crops which were of six ranked barley, were 

 very luxuriant, and certainly the finest we ever saw in the country. 

 The red-legged crow recurred here. During our stay, I ascended the 

 ridge immediately above the castle, passing through a very large village 

 of Gylongs, elevated at least 9000 feet. This village was the largest I 

 saw in Bootan, and was ornamented with a pretty religious build- 

 ing, surrounded by junipers, and more decorated than such edifices 

 usually are. Up to the village the path passed through beautiful 

 woods of Pinus excelsa : above it I came on open sward, which 

 continued on the south face up to the very summit of the ridge, which 

 was nearly 1 1,000 feet. The north face of the mountain was well 

 wooded : on it rhododendrons, a few black p'ines, beautiful clumps 

 of Pinus Smiihiana, Bogh Pat, Mountain Pears, Aconites, Colum- 

 bines, Saxifrages, Primroses, &c. were found in abundance. The 

 southern face was decorated with a pretty yellow Anemone, and 

 the pink spikes of a Bistort. From the ridge still loftier ones were 

 visible in every direction, all of which were covered with snow, which 

 lightly sprinkled the one on which I stood. At this season snow 

 scarcely remains for a day under 11,000 feet, except in very sheltered 

 situations. 



1 5th. I left Chupcha with much regret. We descended by a pre- 

 cipitous path to a torrent about 1800 feet below the castle. Cross- 

 ing this, we descended gradually until we came 1 * the ravine of the 



