908 Journal of a trip through Kunawur. [Nov. 



nature of the offence and the circumstances of the offending parties, 

 these fines though nominally amounting to a certain number of rupees 

 are always levied in goods. 



Thus when the village of Junggee in Kunawur neglected to furnish 

 me with coolies to carry my baggage, the Rajah ordered a fine of 

 one hundred rupees to be levied on the inhabitants, which was to be 

 realised in anything they had to give. The same punishment would 

 have been inflicted on the Churriah who accompanied me to Spiti, 

 had he refused to go. When the Rajah ordered him to prepare for 

 the journey, he was on his way to Simla, to be present at his master's 

 interview with the Governor General, and having already been in 

 Spiti he felt no desire to return to it, consequently he declined going, 

 and offered to pay a fine of five rupees if the Rajah would excuse 

 him and appoint somebody else; but the Rajah turning to him said, — 

 No, no, if you disobey my orders I shall not ask for five rupees, but 

 make you pay one hundred. This was enough, for bad as was the 

 prospect of a journey into the dreary district of Spiti, far worse for the 

 Churriah would have been the infliction of such a fine, and he there- 

 fore departed without another word. 



From Rampore to Gowra, the next stage is a long and fatiguing as- 

 cent all the way. The road winds up the side of a very steep hill, 

 and is strewed with blocks of stone, so thickly in some places as to 

 resemble the bed of a torrent rather than the high road between the 

 Rajah's summer and winter residence. 



The first part of the ascent is over a nearly bare hill, but the scenery 

 improves farther on, and the way is cheered by the occurrence of a 

 scattered forest of oaks, mulberries, rhododendron, and the " Pin us 

 excelsa" or Cheel. From the crest of the ascent, a pretty view is 

 obtained of the surrounding country ; a small amphitheatre is spread 

 beneath, the foreground consisting of gradually sloping hills shelving 

 away towards the river, which winds along unseen below. This slope 

 was studded over with the bright hue of the ripening crops, while round 

 them rose thickly wooded hills, backed in their turn by the dazzling 

 splendour of the snowy range. 



From the brow of this hill the road dips suddenly down again into 

 a thickly wooded dell, from whence it rises on the opposite side to the 

 village of Gowra. Thinking to avoid this second ascent, I followed a 

 bye path through the forest, and a precious scramble I had of it. 

 The soil was so thoroughly impregnated with decomposing chlorite, 

 that it was with some difficulty I could manage to keep upon my feet, 

 from the greasy saponaceous nature of the rock ; and when at last I 



