1839.] Journal of a trip through Kunawur. 909 



reached the stream at the bottom of the glen, from which the road 

 again ascended, I found that the pugdundee I had chosen to follow 

 led along the side of a hill which was daily yielding to the weather, 

 and falling down in masses, which left a nearly perpendicular mural 

 cliff to scramble up. Hands and knees were in some places necessary 

 in order to avoid slipping back again, and this by the greatest exertion. 

 We passed over some masses which the weather had detached, and 

 which were actually tottering to their fall, and were hanging almost by 

 nothing over the deep glen below. On my return to this place, two 

 months and a half afterwards, in the rains, these masses had all been 

 hurled down, and their fragments were scattered in the bed of the 

 stream ; yet another pathway had been made by the villagers to save a 

 mile or two, and it is doubtless doomed, like its predecessors, to fall at 

 no distance of time into the glen. This time I preferred the steepness 

 of the road, to the wet and slippery pugdundee. We managed how- 

 ever to get over safe enough, and my people gave me Job's comfort, by 

 telling me there were far worse roads ahead ! Save me, thought I 

 from bye paths in future, and I felt by no means inclined to exclaim 

 with the courtier in Bombastes, "Short cut or long, to me is all the 

 same !" 



Gowra is a small village, and contains but few houses. It is situated 

 far above the Sutledge, which winds along unseen in the depths below, 

 and the hoarse roar of its turbid waters is even scarcely heard. Here 

 were apples, apricots, mulberries, and citrons bearing fruit, and the 

 barley was nearly all carried from the fields. 



In the woods around the village plenty of game is found, such as the 

 monal, college pheasant, black partridge, and chikore. At this place 

 I halted on the 22nd of May, and the next morning after a walk of an 

 hour and a half arrived at a small village called Mujowlee, where I 

 again encamped, as the rest of the way to Sarahun, which is the proper 

 march, was all up hill, and had I attempted it, my baggage and tent 

 would not have arrived until night, and I should have got no dinner 

 into the bargain, which to a traveller in such a country is by no means 

 either pleasant or comfortable. The road from Gowra to Mujowlee is 

 very good indeed, and vies in some places with those of Simla; it lies 

 through very pretty woods of oak, firs, mulberry, and many others 

 common to the lower hills; the wild dog-rose with its snowy flowers, 

 spreading over the tops of the underwood or climbing high into some 

 tall oak, was in abundance, and almost every villager had a thick roll 

 or necklace of the flowers hung round his neck, or stuck in a bunch on 

 one side of his bonnet. 



