1839.] Journal of a trip through Kunamur. 931 



obliged to steer for the top of the pass by a direct line upwards, and 

 the uncertain footing we obtained in the snow, which constantly gave 

 way beneath our feet, caused us to slide backwards down the hill for 

 many yards before we could stop ourselves again. The sheep track too, 

 which had hitherto been our guide, at last failed us, and we journeyed 

 on by guess ; we had however the whole day before us, and a bright 

 unclouded sky, so it signified little how long we took in ascending. 



About 800 feet from the crest of the pass, I observed in the snow the 

 prints of feet, which at first I thought were those of a man, but the 

 deep holes made by long claws at last arresting my attention, 1 found 

 on a closer inspection that they were the traces of a bear. Well know- 

 ing that in dangerous places the instinct of a brute will often lead him 

 safely through difficulties where man with all his knowledge would 

 fail, I hailed these traces as an assurance of our safety, and at once 

 unhesitatingly committed myself to bruin's guidance ; nor was I wrong, 

 for following his footsteps, they gradually led me beyond the snow, 

 and were lost. 



The crest of the ridge was uncovered for about 50 feet on the south- 

 ern slope, and here we again found the road, which was visible just 

 long enough to assure us that we were in the right direction for 

 Soongnum, and then again disappeared beneath the snows on the 

 northern side. I have often been told by shikarrees that there are 

 two species of bears in the hills, a black one which feeds on fruits and 

 grain, and which is the common Thibet species, (Ursus Thibetanus) 

 and another of a reddish sandy colour, which is only seen on the con- 

 fines of the snow; this species is said to feed on flesh. It is curious that 

 the traces of the bear on Koonung pass should have been exactly on 

 the line of direction taken by the flock, whose dung being scattered oc- 

 casionally on the snow shewed that they too had gone the way that 

 we afterwards by bruin's direction followed. It would seem at least 

 to give some colour to the assurance that this bear lives upon flesh, for 

 from the foot of the pass on either side, that is, from 12,500 feet to its 

 crest, which is 14,508 feet above the sea, there was not a blade of grass 

 perceptible, and only here and there, where the snows melted or slip- 

 ped away, were a few plants of a species of " Potentilla" beginning to 

 show themselves. If then this bear lived upon vegetables, he had no- 

 thing here but the junipers and furze. It could scarcely be possible 

 that he had scented the grain with which the sheep were laden. The 

 Churriah who accompanied me from Rampore, and who lives near 

 Nachar and Tranda in Kunawur, declared that the two bears were of 

 the same species, and that both lived on flesh as well as vegetables, 



