1839.] Journal of a trip through Kunawur. 945 



grain. This spot was called by the Tartars Chungreezing, and here I 

 pitched my blanket-tent at the height of 12,040 feet above the sea. 

 We passed a cold and comfortless night owing to the high keen wind 

 which came whistling down from the snowy peaks above us. At 

 sunset the thermometer stood at 48°, and at sunrise on the morning of 

 the 14th of June, again at 35°! A nice midsummer temperature ! 

 what must the winter be? On the 14th we descended by a very 

 rugged and precipitous pathway to the bed of the Paratee river, a 

 branch of the Lee, which comes down from lake Chummor-rareel, 

 through Chinese Tartary, and joins the latter river above Skialkur. 

 This we crossed by the " stone sangho," as it is called, which is formed 

 by several enormous masses of granite which have fallen from above, 

 and become so firmly wedge into the bed of the river, as to form a 

 safer and more durable bridge than any that could be constructed by 

 the natives, and which from its great weight the waters are unable to 

 remove. A small stream which runs down into the Paratee, a little 

 distance below this bridge, is said to be the boundary line of Bussaher 

 and Chinese Tartary. 



Here then we were in the dominions of the celestial emperor, 

 and as we crossed the sangho we were met by a deputation from 

 the Chinese authorities, who demanded to know what were our in- 

 tentions in entering their country, and how far we had determined 

 to travel through it, intimating at the same time very politely, that 

 .hey would " prefer our room, to our company," by telling us that 

 we need expect no assistance or supplies of any kind. I had no 

 intention of penetrating farther than was requisite into their coun- 

 try, but this being the only road yet open into Spiti, I had been 

 necessarily compelled to follow it, as after all it merely ran across 

 a corner of their territory for about a mile or so. Wishing however to 

 ascertain whether, after having gone through the ceremony of prohi- 

 biting our advance to satisfy their rulers, they could not be prevailed 

 upon to wink at our proceedings, I told this rough ambassador that 

 I would require no supplies, nor take anything from the country, if 

 he would allow me to proceed as far as Choomontee. His reply was 

 evidently borrowed from the Chinese officers, and was worthy of 

 the great Bombastes himself ; — c( When horns grow from the heads 

 of men, and wool is gathered from the rocks ; then may the Fe- 

 ringee advance, — but not till then ! M This was too ridiculous to be 

 withstood, and we enjoyed a hearty laugh, while the dignified officer 

 strutted away, pleased with the assurance that I was only crossing 

 into Spiti. 



