526 ■ SPAIN. 



is over early; and this time of repose, which lasts for two or three 

 hours, is in Spain called the Siesta, and in Portugal the Sesta. Danc- 

 ing is so much their favourite entertainment, that you may see a 

 grandmother, mother, and daughter, all in the same country dance, 

 Many of their theatrical exhibitions are insipid and ridiculous bom- 

 bast. The prompter's head sometimes appears through a trap-door^ 

 above the level of the stage, and he reads the play loud enougn co be 

 heard by the audience. Gallantry is a ruling passion in Spain. Jea- 

 lousy, since the accession of the house of Bourbon, has slept in peace. 

 The nightly musical serenades of mistresses by their lovers are still 

 in use. The fights of the cavaliers, or bull feasts, are almost peculiar 

 to this country, and make a capital figure in painting the genius and 

 manners of the Spaniards. On these occasions, young gentlemen 

 have an opportunity of showing their courage and activity before 

 their mistresses ; and the valour of the cavalier is proclaimed, hon- 

 oured, and rewarded, according to the number and fierceness of the 

 bulls he has killed in these encounters. Great pains are used in 

 settling the form and weapons of the combat, so as to give a relief 

 to the gallantry of the cavalier. The diversion itself, which is attend- 

 ed with circumstances of great barbarity, is undoubtedly of Moorish 

 original, and was adopted by the Spaniards when upon good terms 

 with that nation, partly through complaisance, and partly through 

 rivalship. 



There is not a town in Spain but what has a large square for the 

 purpose of exhibiting bull-fights ; and it is said, that even the poorest 

 inhabitants of the smallest villages will often club together, in order 

 to procure a cow or an ox, and fight them, riding upon asses for want 

 of horses. 



Cities, chief towns, edifices. ..Madrid, though unfortified, it 

 being only surrounded by a mud wall, is the capital of Spain, and 

 contains about 180,000 inhabitants. It is surrounded with very lofty 

 mountains, whose summits are frequently covered with snow. It is 

 well paved and lighted, and some of the streets are spacious and 

 handsome. The houses of Madrid are of brick, and are laid out 

 chiefly for show, convenience being little considered ; thus you will 

 usually pass through two or three large apartments of no use, in 

 order to come at a small room at the end where the family sit. The 

 houses in general look more like prisons than the habitations of 

 people at their liberty ; the windows, besides having a balcony, being 

 grated with iron bars, particularly the lower range, and sometimes 

 all the rest. Separate families generally inhabit the same house, as 

 in Paris and Edinburgh. Foreigners are very much distressed for 

 lodgings at Madrid, as the Spaniards are not fond of taking strangers 

 into their houses, especially if they are not catholics. Its greatest 

 excellency is the cheapness of its provisions ; but neither tavern, 

 coffee-house, nor newspaper, excepting the Madrid Gazette, is to be 

 found in the whole city. The royal palace stands on an eminence, 

 on the west side of the city ; it is a spacious magnificent structure, 

 consisting of three courts, and commands a very fine prospect. Each 

 of the fronts is 470 feet in length, and 100 high, and there is no 

 palace in Europe fitted up with greater magnificence ; the great 

 audience chamber especially, which is 120 feet long, and hung with 

 crimson velvet richly embroidered with gold : it is ornamented also 

 with 12 looking-glasses made at St. Udefonso, each ten feet high, 

 and with 12 tables of the finest Spanish marble. The other royal 



