28 THE ORCHID REVIEW. 
done, likewise Aérides, Vandas, S labi Phal I and some — 
others. } 
Disas having been watered very sparingly during the winter, and 
occupying a Cool house averaging about 50°, and a position near a 
ventilator so as to receive an abundance of air, will now commence to shew — 
signs of growing more freely. Still continue to keep them moderately — 
moist only at the roots, until the days lengthen and more air can be given, 
when water must be applied in larger quantities. The best time to repot 
Disas is immediately after they have passed out of bloom in August. The 
compost should be sandy peat surfaced with sphagnum moss. 
The flower sheaths of some Cattleyas will occasionally lose their green- — 
ness and become quite dry long ere the flower spike is due. This fact often 
occasions uneasiness on the part of the cultivator, who imagines that the 
flower spike is already doomed, or will be unable to push itself up when the 
time comes round. No fear, however, need be entertained in that direction, 
as the spike, if the sheath is not interfered with, will come just the same. 
Should the fleshy sheath, however, turn pulpy just at the time the flower 
spike is pushing up, then it is better to cut off its top, so as to admit the 
air to the young tender flower buds, otherwise they sometimes decay. j 
I am extremely sorry to learn from several quarters that the Cattleya 
fly is still plentiful. So far as I am aware it is quite useless to fumigate 
with a view of killing it. I have heard of a house of Cattleyas being fumi- 
gated every night with tobacco paper for twelve months, which had not the 
slightest effect upon the fly. I have often wondered how the Cattleyas 
looked at the expiration of the twelve months. Possibly the new “XL All 1 
fumigating insecticide ” might kill them, but I strongly suspect that they — 
are too securely hidden away from its fumes. There would be no harm in 
trying it at intervals, and especially so with newly-imported specimens, for 
then, before they are potted, the fumes could thoroughly penetrate the mass 
and possibly have the desired effect. Having no fly here to deal with, I 
have had no occasion to try the above method. The only way that I know 
at present of stamping out this much-to-be-dreaded pest is by destroying 
its larve, and for the benefit of new subscribers I may here repeat previous 
instructions. 
Its existence may be detected when the young break or growth is about 
an inch high, as it becomes abnormally thick at the base and tapers some- 
what more to a point than usual, the growth afterwards making but little 
Progress. When such growths are observed they should be cut off, and, — 
ten to one, in its centre the young grub will be found in a more or less 
advanced stage. If destroyed in this way an effectual check to theif 
breeding is attained, and much harm to the plants prevented. Should an 
infested growth be overlooked, and the insect come to maturity, a great 
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