120 THE ORCHID REVIEW. 
The very pretty Trichopilia suavis is now producing its flower spikes, 
and all the species of this genus, including those formerly called Pilumna, 
are best grown in a shady part of the Mexican house, or in the Cattleya 
house, and if treated exactly like a Cattleya will grow well, and keep free 
from that black disease which often takes them off if kept too wet or cold. 
The same conditions are also necessary for Burlingtonias, which should be 
grown in baskets near the light, as also should Cattleya citrina. No doubt 
this species is best grown on blocks of wood. The best blocks are made of 
living apple or pear, or, failing these, plum, whitethorn, the common 
dogwood, or maple may be used in a green state. Next in order come 
blocks of teak wood, which resists decay and fungus for a long time. If 
ordinary deal is used it should be charred before using. 
Disas may now be removed to a cool frame facing north, or otherwise 
they must have a specially cool place selected for them in the Odonto- 
glossum house. They may now be freely supplied with water throughout 
the summer, and care must be taken to keep them quite clean and free 
from insect pests. I have discontinued growing Vanda Kimballiana in the 
Cool house, finding that the Intermediate house temperature suits it better. 
It should now be given fresh moss and plenty of moisture. V. Amesiana 
will also grow well in the same house. The pretty little orange-coloured 
Odontoglossum retusum is now in flower ; also Cochlioda Noetzliana and 
C. vulcanica gigantea. We find all these grow thoroughly well in the 
coolest house. 
Some kinds of Cypripedium, when newly imported, are not So easy to 
establish as others. C. Stonei, C. Lowii, C. Haynaldianum, and such-like 
species, often give some trouble to keep from dying. They should be kept 
well shaded in a fairly moist house. The roots should be moistened occ® 
sionally, but water had better be withheld from the leaves for a time. It 
is best to set the plants on damp moss, propped upright. T he system af 
laying them about on the stages, or suspending them by their heels and 
syringing them, is not to be commended. The repotting of the established 
plants must be continued as they commence to grow after flowering. 
the compost be of good lumpy peat and sphagnum moss, mixing in a = 
fibrous loam and silver sand, and pot firmly. Never insert the old ball 
roots into the new pot without first freeing them from the old materials. 
The disbudding of aerial growths from the pseudobulbs of Dendrobiums 
has previously been advised. A question from a correspondent, asking 
whether or no they should be removed, reminds me that others may als? 
be uncertain in this matter. “Some newly-imported plants of Dendrobint 
nobile have broken into growth at many points of the old bulbs, a well 
from the base.” Providing a reasonable quantity of growths appear as 
the base—and such is mostly the case—those from the top must be remy 
