76 THE ORCHID REVIEW. {MaRCH, 1907. 
that only want potting on to allow further development, and not because 
the compost is in an exhausted or sour state, should be potted without much 
disturbance of the bulb, beyond the removal of a little of the surface, and 
the liberating of a few roots around the sides, so that they may quickly 
enter the new material. This also applies to larger plants that are in good 
robust condition, providing the soil is in good order. The most difficult 
problem is to know what is best to do with plants that show a gradual 
deterioration during the past two or three seasons. If they are retained at 
all as plants pull them to pieces, and remove all back bulbs, retaining not 
more than two behind the leading one, and then pot up singly in as small 
pots as possible. At one time I thought specimens could be re-made to 
advantage in this way, but I think now that I know a far better plan, which 
I will explain further on. Potting should be done rather firmly, keeping the 
base of the new lead just a shade below the rim of the pot. We find that 
from this compost enough moss generally grows for their well-being. 
After potting is the most critical time in the whole year, especially if we 
should experience a cold and dull time, and it requires much discretion to 
known when the plants should be watered. If the pseudo-bulbs are allowed 
to shrivel much, a good portion of the work of the roots will be taken to 
restore the shrivelled bulbs, thus robbing and checking the young growths 
at the outset, unless chemicals are resorted to, and I.strongly condemn their 
use. After such a check the growth will never attain such proportions as 
they would have done if the pseudobulbs had been kept in a plump state. 
Sufficient water should be given to prevent the pseudo-bulbs from shrivelling 
but no more, until the roots have well extended and entered the new 
material. After watering be very careful that the temperature does not fall 
below 65° at least, 68° as a minimum will be preferable from now onwards. 
As the season advances and the roots take a good hold of the compost, 
gradually increase the supply of water still allowing the plants to become 
fairly dry before watering till June is well in, but during that month and the 
next, if they are growing well, never allow them to become quite dry. 
Ifa stock of vigorous plants is to be always in evidence, there should 
be some young plants ready to take the place of old exhausted ones, I have 
referred to this point before, and rather than attempt to restore an old 
exhausted plant I would chop it up for stock, and pot up one that has been 
previously propagated to take its place. If specimens are required, 
grow on propagated pieces till they have made growths at least 12 inches 
long, which can be done while the plants are in pots not more 4 inches in 
diameter. By placing several of these together a fine healthy specimen can 
be produced, with a full life before it, of course taking the precaution that 
they were all propagated from one plant. I have proved this to be a 
much quicker process than trying to restore a worn out plant. 
