78 THE ORCHID REVIEW. [ MARCH, 1907. 
frequently breaks double, and then there is a very full pot and in most cases 
we get from two to five spikes per pot on the strong growing varieties. 
Again, the spikes are generally stronger, and-by not being crowded the 
bulbs are better ripened, while small pots can be staged much better for 
effect. In fact I consider it much easier in every way to grow them singly. 
When potted, give them a sunny position in a humid house, where the stove 
temperature is maintained, and practically no water will be required for 
some considerable time. When the soil has become exhausted of all 
moisture, a watering may be given, and by this I mean more than by saying 
water when they become dry. Damping between the pots will be helpful, 
but direct watering should be avoided as much as possible for some time. 
This course should be followed till the growths have got well away, up to 
the time when the leaves begin to unfold, and then rather more water will 
be needed, but even then allow them to become well dry first. As the 
growths develop and the roots have well entered the compost, increase the 
supply, yet allow them to become fairly dry before watering, right up to the 
time’when indication of swelling appear at the base. From then till the 
new bulb is completed they should never be allowed to become dry at the 
root. Although I advise giving them a sunny position when first potted, 
to ensure a strong sturdy growth, they should be given protection from 
strong sunshine as soon as the foliage begins to expand, increasing the 
amount as the season advances. 
TuHuNIAsS.—These should have attention this month, and the same com- 
post as given for Calanthes will be found very suitable. Ordinary pots are 
ideal receptacles, using a drainage of crocks not quite one-third the depth of 
the pot. The best results are attained when they are repotted annually. 
All the old bulbs and most of the old roots should be cut away, retaining 
enough to hold the plant in position. Pot firmly, keeping the compost 
below the rim of the pot, and secure each bulb to a stake. Place the plants 
in a very sunny position close to the glass in a hot moist house. _ It is well 
to grow them quickly, yet it is most important that the growth is hard. If 
this compost is used, and they are not subjected to shade till the flower heads 
can be felt, the majority of the growths that are strong enough will flower, 
and in most cases the growths will not be 18 inches in length. When 
growing them exposed to much sunshine it is very important to see they 
do not become dry at the roots, otherwise towards the end of April the 
foliage will soon be disfigured through scorching. For sometime after 
potting they will require very little water, but as the growths lengthen and 
the sun gets stronger, gradually increase the supply. 
_ CATTLEYA LABIATA.—This fine species will now be starting into growth, 
offering a favourable time for any necessary repotting work being done. 
Use a compost of fibrous peat two parts, chopped sphagnum two parts, and 
