110 THE ORCHID REVIEW. [APRIL, 1907. 
when successfully grown, giving a fine show of flowers in the autumn. Any 
plants that were not potted when new roots were emitted on the last-made 
pseudobulb may very well be potted now, if they require it, just as the new 
growths are coming away. For some time we gave these species somewhat 
‘shallow pans to grow in, but since we have used ordinary pots, provided 
with three holes by which they can be suspended, we have found they make 
much stronger growth. A good drainage is essential, and filling the pots 
nearly half full with rhizomes will not be excessive. A very suitable 
compost consists of three parts very fibrous peat and two parts chopped 
sphagnum, mixed with some sand and small crocks. To maintain vigorous 
growth it is very important that they are not retarded by having many old 
back bulbs. Cut these away freely, and judge the size of your plants by 
the number of leads, not by the number of bulbs. That is a point I con- 
sider all Orchidists should constantly observe. Pot moderately firmly, 
allowing room for a surfacing of sphagnum, with the exception of plants 
that may require potting on, and they should go for at least two seasons with 
just a little attention to the surface material. A position should be afforded 
them in the Intermediate house, choosing the coolest end, and they are best 
suited suspended, where they can have the benefit of a fair amount of strong 
light. Water should be sparingly applied for some time, but overhead 
spraying when the conditions are favourable is very helpful. 
L&LIA MONOPHYLLA.—This little gem is now well started into growth, 
and any repotting should be done at once, using the sarne mixture as given 
to L. pumila. With us it grows very well suspended in the house in which 
Cypripedium insigne is grown, which may well be called ‘Cool inter- 
mediate.” During active growth it requires a fair amount of water, but at 
no season should it be allowed to become very dry. 
In the Cattleya house, plants of C. bicolor, C. granulosa, C. velutina 
and others of the long-bulbed section will be starting into growth, thus 
enabling any potting or surfacing being done forthwith. Use a compost of 9 
good fibrous peat two parts, chopped sphagnum two parts, and leaf soil one 
part, with geome sand and small crocks. Give a fair drainage of crocks and 
rhizomes; and pot firmly, keeping the base of the new growth on a level 
with the rim of pot. This section is often seriously retarded by having s0 
many old back bulbs to support, so cut them away. Secure the bulbs to — 
neat stakes, so that there is no shake when the plant is moved. They ca® 
be best treated when grouped together, and they prefer more direct sum q 
shine than most of the other sections of Cattleya. Water carefully till the 
growths are well away and the roots have made a good start, and taken 
hold of the compost, and then they will take copious supplies till the full 4 
-development of the new bulb is completed. 
C@LocyYNeEs.—Plants of the cristata section will be ready for potting 4 
NR er I mls 
