APRIL, 1907.] THE ORCHID REVIEW. 111 
this month, if they need it. I donot advise potting these oftener than is 
absolutely necessary. A suitable mixture is made up of two parts peat to 
one part each of good fibrous loam and chopped sphagnum, with some sand 
and small crocks. Pans are the best receptacles, and a good drainage of 
‘crocks and rhizomes should be given. When doing well these soon become 
very crowded, making it advisable from time to time to pull them carefully 
apart, taking off some of the back portions. In re-making the plant keep 
the rhizome of the plant only a trifle higher than the rim of the pan, and 
allow enough room for future development. A specimen will then go for 
several years with just an annual re-surfacing, and the cutting out of a few 
back bulbs to prevent the plant again becoming unduly crowded, and by 
this means the centre will be as floriferous as the outer parts. Very 
pleasing objects can be made by growing them in 6 and 7 inch pans, 
suspending them in such a house as a fernery, where a minimum winter 
temperature of about 50° is maintained. After being disturbed water must 
be carefully applied till the growths and roots have made a fresh start, and 
remembering that the cooler they are grown the dryer they require keeping. 
TRICHOPILIAS.—T. fragrans and the fine T. fragrans nobilius will be 
starting in the Cool intermediate house, and the necessary potting may be 
done, using a compost of equal parts of peat and sphagnum, with some sand 
and small crocks. Ordinary pots should be used, giving a drainage of 
rocks and rhizomes. During growth give water freely, and at no time 
‘should they be deprived of water long enough to cause any shrivelling. 
From now till the autumn overhead spraying and protection from all strong 
light will be helpful. T. coccinea and its varieties will soon be coming 
into flower, and they also will now require a fair amount of water. 
VANDAS AND AERIDES will now require more water directly, and the 
general surroundings should be kept in a humid state. Spikes will now be 
apparent on some varieties, such as V. suavis and V. tricolor, yet if it is 
necessary to renovate the surface material or even to renew the compost 
-down to the crocks no harm will be done in carrying this out. Work out 
all the old soured material carefully. Many growers only use moss, but I 
prefer working in some good fibrous peat with it, though the actual surface 
may to advantage be all moss, the aérial roots should be guided to the pot, 
and not allowed more than possible to go to any angle. Plants that have 
a considerable amount of bare stem and no roots should have moss tied 
round the stems, to try and induce roots, so that at some future time the 
basal part may be cut away, by which lowering the leaves are brought down 
close to the base. The most shady position should be chosen, with Cattleya 
house temperature. If it is possible to place them where they have walls 
at the back and sides so much the better. 
VANDA DENISONIANA is better suited when grown suspended, and given 
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