SEPTEMBER, 1907.] THE ORCHID REVIEW. 267 
better if they are given fairly deep pans, and if these have no side perfora- 
tions so much the better. Give a good drainage, first placing a few crocks 
over the aperture, then a liberal amount of bracken rhizomes, deciding 
the quantity by the amount of roots each individual plant has. Some 
varieties are much deeper rooting than others, which should be borne in 
mind when deciding the quantity of drainage. 
Whenever a plant shows signs of decay in the centre it is quite time 
it was pulled apart, and the decaying portions removed. The outer parts 
can then be remade into a specimen or potted up separately, at the grower’s 
discretion. When it is desirable to rebuild a specimen, be quite sure there 
is some compost between each section. If the plant is not a large one it 
can be built in the hand, and potted just as if it was one plant. By this 
means the plant can develop all ways. Plants that are in a thoroughly 
sound state and have reached the edge of the receptacles will be benefited 
by being given a shift into a larger pot, but it is better to err on the 
side of too small pots rather than to over-pot, as during the winter months 
they resent being in a wet state for any length of time. When a large 
receptacle is used for a comparatively small plant the bulk of the material 
takes too long to dry after being watered, and much harm accrues. If on 
the other hand the plant has made a great deal of root, and is not afforded 
some fresh material and more root room, the leaves will present a sickly 
yellow appearance, and the flowers will not be up to the standard, so this, 
like many other matters relating to Orchid culture, must be left to the 
individual to decide between plant and plant. After potting water must be 
very carefully given, till the new roots have well entered the new material. 
Give them a position in the Cool or Odontoglossum house. We prefer 
for these the lightest part of that structure. I do not mean to say they 
want direct sunshine, but in most houses the light when shaded is stronger 
at one end than the other, or one side than the other, and that is the position 
I prefer for Masdevallias. 
The beautiful species, M. tovarensis, requires a rather warmer house, 
also some of the hybrids from it, such as M. X McVittie and M X 
Hincksiana. In potting these I like to add a little good fibrous loam. 
The species of the Chimera section will require teak baskets, on account 
of the flowers being produced in a pendant form, and a position in the Cool 
intermediate house, where they can be very freely syringed overhead. 
During the summer season they are benefited by being sprayed overhead on 
bright days. . 
When growing freely they require a fair amount of water, but during the 
short days water must be given very sparingly indeed. I am afraid many of 
the failures in growing these could be traced to too much water during the 
winter months. I like to allow the plants to become well dry, and remain 
