268 THE ORCHID REVIEW. (SEPTEMBER, 1907, 
so for several days; then when water is given let it be enough to go 
thoroughly through the compost. If the plant was really well dry when 
watered, the compost will very soon be again in a semi-dry state. It is bad 
policy to give them water in dribbles, and during the winter it will be ample 
if they ere looked over once a week. Speaking generally, if the humidity 
of the house is well maintained, they should go for two weeks, and perhaps 
longer, between each watering. The situation, class of house, what the 
floors are made of, &c., have all to be taken into consideration in determining 
how long a plant can safely go without water, but if they are looked over 
once a week, the experienced eye would soon detect any that are suffering 
from want of water. I consider the winter management by far the most 
important detail in their culture, 
MILTONIA VEXILLARtA.—The new growths on these are now sufficiently 
forward to enable the annual repotting to be done, using a compost of very 
fibrous peat and good sphagnum in equal parts, with plenty of coarse sand and 
small crocks. Not being deep rooting subjects, fill the pots rather more than 
one-third full with crocks and rhizomes. Before starting to repot, be quite 
sure they are thoroughly clear of thrip. We have few Orchids that require 
such constant vigilance to keep them clear of that pest, but if the houses 
are fumigated regularly every two or three weeks, there should be no danger 
from that source. If there is any suspicion of their presence, dip the plants 
in some safe and good insecticide. It is very desirable that they should be 
8rown, at any rate during the winter, in the smallest pot possible, without 
unduly cramping the roots, and it is very easy to pot on any plant in 
February that looks as if benefit would accrue from more root space. 
I do not advise leaving for February potting any but those that want 
shifting on, for it is now that the thorough overhauling should be given. 
‘The compost on some ma 
small pot, its only requirement would be a shift on. Such I would now 
leave alone, but all those that would not be 
now be carefully taken out, and the old co 
every live root and cutting off all dead o 
previously said, into the smallest pot possible. Do not firm the ‘material too 
much, yet avoid spongy potting. So much depends on the amount of fibre 
the peat contains. The roots can ramify freely amongst the very fibrous 
material when potting is done moderately firmly, yet if the same degree of 
firmness was given when a soily peat was used, it would be a solid mass, and 
not what these require. 
After potting has been fini 
with the water can, onl 
however, will be done 
and also on bright da 
suitable for potting on should 
mpost worked away, preserving 
nes, and then repot, as I have 
shed and the plants re-staged, be very careful 
y watering as they become well dry. Much good, 
by seeing that the surroundings are kept well moist, 
ys by lightly spraying them over to assist them in 
y beina very sound state, and if the plant is in a | 
i 
1 Go A ap DON Se GATS ee SA, eS 
