260 THE ORCHID REVIEW. [SEPTEMBER, 1906, 
a few other Burmese, Indian, and Australian Dendrobes, with, of course, a 
specimen of all the Java sorts, named and unnamed, of which’ there are 
several very pretty plants. When I say unnamed, I mean that they are not 
known here. 
Mixed up with these Orchids are several kinds of palms, Cycads, Hoyas, 
Sansevieras, Crinums, and dozens of beautiful ferns, in fact I might say there 
are fifty to one hundred species to choose from. Asparagus, Stephanotis, 
Allemandas, Aristolochia elegans, and ferns, form some of the creepers, 
which are useful for shade as well as ornamental. As this shade becomes 
too dense, it is an easy matter to thin it out, or prune the trees in the open. 
The South American Orchids are for the most part now transferred to 
pots and baskets, and a few are attached to trees, taking care of themselves. 
Although imported last December, only one has bloomed, namely, Lelia 
harpophylla, though many are vigorous, such as Odontoglossum grande, 
Leelio-cattleya elegans, Cattleya Triane, C. Harrisoniana, C. Mossi, and 
C. Bowringiana. A few that have hung fire are Lelia flava and Cattleya 
amethystoglossa, whilst Cattleya Skinneri and gigas departed this life with- 
out a struggle. When I get any more I mean to attach the whole lot to 
' living trees, without any other material except perhaps a little moss—and 
very little of that—but as pot or basket subjects they will not succeed im 
the west monsoon, but must be under cover, as the drenching rains rot the 
roots and bulbs in no time. 
In addition to growing Javan Orchids on special trees—and I may say 
from my own experience that this is far and away the best way out here, as 
when once established the plants require little or no attention, sending 
their roots up and down the stems and deriving apparently all the nourish- 
ment they need from the bark, and doing well—many kinds do well in 4 
ball of moss, such as Vandas, Aérides and Saccolabiums. For myself, 
having got the plants home fresh from the forest, I shorten back all long. 
stringy roots to a length of say six inches, and take some clean moss—the 
sort that clings to trees and lives upon moisture is best—make a loose ball. 
or pad with a little areca palm fibre, and bind these skortened roots loosely 
on the outside with rough string made from the same fibre, dip in rain water, 
if in fine weather, and hang up in a light, airy situation. No direct pit 
light should reach the plants. They then quickly form new roots, attaching: 
the old ones to the moss, and penetrating into the ball freely. The ol 
roots must always be exposed, as covering them up rots the whole base of 
the plant. 
Phalznopsis are best grown on living wood also, or plain hard wood : 
blocks or branches. Sometimes they will prove a success in baskets with @ 
little moss that will grow on dead wood, but this Orchid is not easy . : 
manage. Often with strong healthy roots running up and down the stem> 
