1843.] Trip to the Bulcha and Oonta Dhoora Passes. 85 



on the top of Bhumras, and in advance, almost black. Oonta Dhura 

 was visible after turning Eastward, and seemed to be a low black hill, 

 of moderate steepness, with more soil than snow visible. But its con- 

 tinuations East and West were finely covered with snow. Continuous 

 though not steep ascent till 8 o'clock, when I reached the foot of 

 Oonta Dhura, (called Oonta ke Jum,) where people generally halt before 

 cresting the Pass. A small rill of water goes down to the S. W., and 

 probably forms the source of the Goonka river. Road (or track) thus 

 far chiefly over snow-beds, said to cover enormous masses of ice ; these 

 melt and split into fissures during the rains, causing much inconveni- 

 ence and danger to travellers. 



I resolved on walking over the Pass to ascertain how my breathing 

 would be affected ; and started without making any halt at the foot. 

 The ascent was longer than I expected, but I walked very slowly, halt- 

 ing every now and then for a second or two, so as not to lose my wind, 

 and at 9h. 15m. a. m., reached the summit. The hill side was very 

 wet, but whether from snow recently melted, or from springs below 

 the surface, I know not. During the ascent, I certainly felt my breath- 

 ing slightly affected, and had I walked fast the affection would proba- 

 bly have been severe. In going over the Luspa hill on the 24th instant, 

 I felt much greater distress, but there I travelled quickly, and the sun 

 was more powerful. During my ascent of Oonta, the sun shone out 

 with great splendour ; and the dazzling brilliancy of the snow on either 

 side was truly wonderful. I had never seen or imagined any thing 

 comparable to it, what then must be the effect when nothing but snow 

 is visible in every direction ? The Booteeas all put on thin horse hair 

 spectacles. I had on a pair, and a green veil also, but my eyes soon 

 became painful, and I was almost stupid from pain before reaching the 

 halting place of Topee Doonga. What may be the difficulties of this 

 Pass after a severe winter, I of course cannot judge ; but it would be 

 absurd to speak of difficulties this year, (except the minor ones of cold 

 and glare) ; and I feel certain that I could walk from Milum to the 

 summit of Oonta Dhura in one day ; the only drawback being the fear- 

 fully bad road.* 



* At the foot of Oonta, snow pheasants (huoneal or huonwal) were calling, but 

 high up in the snow. It is hard to imagine what these birds live on, there not being 

 a berry or particle of vegetation for miles round. Yesterday a man brought me seven 



