J 843.] Trip to the Bulcha and Oonta Dhoora Passes. 89 



bare sand- stone, with a small stream flowing North in the hollow 

 between them, chiefly under snow-beds. The hills on either side are 

 perpetually crumbling away, thus forming immense heaps of loose 

 stones all along their bases. There was a good deal of snow on the 

 North slopes of the ravines (or khunds) and otherwise the prospect was 

 extremely desolate. At llh. 55m. reached Chingnoo, after a most 

 tiresome and hot descent. Nagoo, &c. wanted to go further, as but 

 very scanty forage was procurable here for the cattle, (the first vegeta- 

 tion we had met with since morning) ; but I was quite tired and would 

 go no further before eating something. Chingnoo is a small level spot 

 on the right or East bank of the stream noted above ; and on the left 

 or South bank of another stream coming down from the East, and join- 

 ing the former one here. The united streams turn West a mile or two 

 in advance, and eventually join the Louka, &c. by a cut through the 

 hills near Gertee. Just north of Chingnoo, across the stream, a suc- 

 cession of low hills commence extending northwards to the river 

 below Lufkhel. These are covered with a low creeping thorn, (called 

 damak,) which is found to within two or three miles of Milum ; and 

 the hollows afford very good pasturage. Just as we approached 

 Chingnoo, the Lama, (who had been encamped somewhere near us 

 at Topee Doonga yesterday,) was seen starting on his march from 

 Chingnoo, with his small party, seven or eight men, and half a dozen 

 ponies. These ponies must be really good ones to have come thus far 

 without accident ; but they were knocked up by the Pass, and com- 

 pelled the Lama to halt yesterday. This was very fortunate, for I can- 

 not attribute the Lama's sudden departure from Milum to any thing 

 but fear of my crossing the Pass; or to a desire of stopping me 

 by going ahead, and giving information. After breakfast, we shall 

 move on until we come up with his party ; and then by counting his 

 people morning and evening, all fear of annoyance will be obviated. 

 Eloquence will also be exerted to convince the Lama, how unjust it 

 would be to cause me trouble after the kind reception he met with in 

 our territory ; and he will be threatened with non-admission into our 

 provinces again, should he cause the Booteeas trouble on my account ; 

 so I hope we may manage him yet. Altogether though, I do not quite 

 like the state of affairs, and glad enough shall I be to find myself safe 

 again at Milum, after a view of Tibet, and a little of the glorious sporting 



