644 Report on Shoa [No. 140. 



handed down from the former generation, when the country was not in 

 such a settled state as it is at present, and when the traveller was obliged 

 to keep a weary and vigilant look out for parties of roving Galla, and to 

 give battle on the moment, if the occasion required ; but Sabila Salassie 

 has wonderfully improved matters during his long reign, and now, if 

 provided with the necessary royal permission, an unarmed man can 

 pass through any part of the hereditary dominions of Shoa, without 

 scath to limb or property. 



64. As the king's guest, the traveller is in general treated with some 

 degree of respect, which is, however, entirely owing to the despot's 

 wishes, and the fear of consequences unbars the door of the house and 

 throws open the stores for the consumption of man and beast ; but a 

 churlish reception would most probably await the unfortunate who tra- 

 velled through the country without the king's permission ; and a well- 

 stocked purse, or a well-filled portmanteau, would not invariably produce 

 a salutary effect, as the savage has always some plan or idea in abey- 

 ance, to obtain any curious article exposed to his admiring view, with- 

 out the necessity of imparting aught of value in exchange. Under 

 every advantage, and attended by the king's household officers, it is ex- 

 tremely difficult at times to obtain the most simple and necessary sup- 

 plies, and force is frequently resorted to, to extract these articles for 

 which the most liberal payment has been tendered beforehand ; but there 

 always exists along with the desire to acquire property, an innate dis- 

 like to part with aught the most trilling, and even among the higher 

 classes, the small request of a stick or a spear is peremptorily refused to 

 parties, who have heretofore loaded the ingrate with the richest imagin- 

 able presents. 



65. A great man on coming to the capital if unprovided with a 

 house of his own, is certain to find ready accommodation always with the 

 inmates of any of the lower description of dwellings, who are all willing, 

 for a trifling consideration, to remove their bullock hides, and allow the 

 grand visitor the free use of the apartment, such as it is. They will also 

 cook the victuals of the stranger and his followers, if of the same reli- 

 gious persuasion as themselves, and remain content with a very small 

 remuneration indeed. 



66. His Majesty, however, in general, has tents pitched for all great 

 men, and liberally supplies them with food, both at his own table and in 



