85 2 Observations upon the past and present [Oct. 



fabrication to account for a square, tall, brick building, which resembles 

 the wells so frequently found near the banks of the river. It is situat- 

 ed in a hollow through which the river is said formerly to have flowed, 

 and which is perhaps merely the driedup channel of some nullah. 

 Of the name of the well Bibi Mako I could get no more satisfactory 

 explanation than that the words are convenient for the repetition of the 

 echo. Every little idle urchin runs into the square and bawls 

 out Bibi Mako with a drawl on the o, and is equally frightened and 

 delighted with the reply of Bibi Mako. One argument is conclusive 

 against an inundation : that the hills on which stood the old city are 

 higher ground than the level of the present town, and that the latter is 

 the more likely also to be overflowed. Indeed no such extravagant 

 theories are required to account for the desertion of the first occupied 

 spot. The whim of the reigning prince is sufficient to determine the 

 position of any oriental town, of which we cannot look around with- 

 out observing instances, as at Delhi, Lucknow, Maheswar, &c. And 

 that coins and antiques should be picked up, is not a whit more 

 extraordinary than the annual harvest of such curiosities at Beghram 

 and Canouj, &c. towns, the last of which at least, was gradually 

 deserted. 



Romance lovers would be shocked at my theory of the origin of 

 the so-called raja Bhirtri''s caves. The natives are in the habit of 

 excavating the foot of the hills of the old city for an excellent clay of 

 which there is a thick and extensive bed. Any one who has resided 

 at Delhi will remember the excavations there for the same purpose, 

 which have not unfrequently been converted into agreeable tahkhanehs. 

 One of those at Oujein nearly rivals in extent, Bhirtri^s retreat, is 

 supported by arches cut out of the clay and is divided into several 

 chambers. Such was probably the origin of the great caves, which 

 are very low, and not of any great extent*. They are supported by 

 pillars, clumsy, but massive, and the walls and ceilings are lined with 

 enormous blocks of stone calculated, it might be thought, " to fatigue 

 time." But they will shortly be crushed by their own weight ; already 

 one room has fallen in, and some of the slabs are in such a position that 

 at first sight it does not seem safe to walk under them. What may 

 have been the primary object of the buildings is matter of question. 

 The natives contend that it was raja Bhirtri"s hermitage, but their 

 own fables refute them, for we read that the raja immediately after 

 swallowing the amar phal set out on his travels. In no place did he 

 allow his weary limbs long to rest, though he halted at- Sehwan on the 

 * The dimensions may be seen in Hunter. 



