990 Journal of an Expedition to the Chinese Frontier. [Dec, 



I was on my arrival permitted to enter the fort and pitch my tent 

 close to the late Tsaubua's palace, for the convenience of my followers, 

 who found cover in some sheds attached to it, which being contrary to 

 their customs was no small proof of their friendly feeling towards us. 



Our traders stated that no difficulty or delay was experienced in 

 procuring passes, nor any impediment thrown in the way of the cattle 

 trade. 



I quitted Labong on the 1 2th and reached Zumue the same day. 

 Here no person received me nor was any notice taken of me until I 

 had sent to express my surprise at it, when apologies were made and 

 many false excuses offered. I was presented to the Tsaubua on the 

 15th, he made many professions of goodwill towards us, which 

 from his character I have no reason to mistrust. The chiefs present 

 endeavoured to dissuade me from proceeding towards China, as- 

 serting that the roads were impassable, infested by robbers, and no 

 supplies procurable. An indirect attempt was also made to per- 

 suade me to go to Muang Nan, through which district the road 

 frequented by the Chinese caravan runs, evidently wishing to re- 

 lieve themselves from all trouble and responsibility. Finding that 

 I was not to be moved from my purpose, and that I had no intention 

 whatever of visiting Muang Nan itself, they said that they did not 

 wish me to go to China, but that even if they did not give me permis- 

 sion to proceed, if I insisted on going they could not prevent me. I 

 disclaimed all intention of forcing my way through their country, 

 that if your request was not acceded to I should without delay retrace 

 my steps to Maulamyaing. I at the same time made use of every 

 argument I could bring forward to gain my point, and was finally told 

 that before an answer could be given me it would be necessary to 

 consult the authorities at Labong and Lagon, as it was customary on 

 all matters of importance, and I should have a reply in six days. 

 They requested me to postpone any other subject I might have for 

 discussion until the above was settled. 



I was admitted to a second conference on the 18th, arranged for the 

 apprehension of some runaway thugs, and discussed various com- 

 plaints of the cattle merchants. 



Finding on the 22nd that no intelligence had been received of the 

 officers from Labong and Lagon, who had been sent for to consult 

 respecting my journey, it appeared to me that they were endeavouring 

 to delay my departure until orders could be received from the Chou-kona 

 I therefore called on the Chou Raja Wu'n and complained of the 

 unnecessary delay, when he requested me to wait till the 24th for the 

 replies. 



