146 
FOREST AND STREAM 
provision depot, winch, owing to the frequency of 
wrecks, in the neighborhood, lias succored many poor dis¬ 
tressed mariners, who have barely reached the shore with 
their lives; the keeper and his kind hearted wife and 
family, dressing their wounds and attending the sick, dur¬ 
ing an eight months'winter. The Government has recog¬ 
nized the valuable aid rendered by these people, and pre¬ 
sented Air. Pope with an elegant gold watch, and a silver 
one for his assistant, Mr. Wm. Padeau, both bearing suita¬ 
ble inscriptions. The keeper referred to, Air. Edward Pope, 
Is a very intelligent, gentlemanly man, and his amiable 
wife, very lady-like; his home is surrouuded with all the at¬ 
tributes of cultivated taste; his young family are being 
taught by a lady teacher engaged for that purpose, and dis¬ 
play considerable taste and ability in music and drawing. 
He succeeded his father, who was for many years the keeper, 
and with his mother, died, and was buried on the spot. Their 
graves being marked by handsome marble- tomb stones, 
surrounded by a neat wooden railing, kept in perfect order. 
He has a garden, and cultivates potatoes, carrots, turnips, 
lettuce, &e., and gets in hay enough for a horse and cow. 
It is a strange faet, that while horses and swine thrive 
on the Island, horned cattle only live eighteen montlm, ex¬ 
cepting at one place called Ellis Bay, where they do re¬ 
markably well. I have seen at this spot some line cattle, 
owned by Oapt. Robert Setter, who is in charge of a pro¬ 
vision depot, and carries on some farming operations 
besides fishing. IVby horned cattle fare better at this one 
point, has not yet been clearly accounted for. Several rea¬ 
sons have been adduced, but none appear satisfactory. It 
Ib, however, during the winter montlis that cattle die, not¬ 
withstanding their being well housed and living upon the 
same hay eaten by the horses. To load supplies at the dif¬ 
ferent points on the island, owing to the shallow ap¬ 
proaches, the horse is harnessed to a truck and driven a 
long distance out in the sea, where the heavily laden boats 
are met, the supplies transferred to the truck, and hauled 
ashore by the horse, who sometimes seriously objects to 
• traveling over such a watery road. At 1 P. M. all the sup¬ 
plies being landed we bade good by to Mr. Pope and his 
family, and with a parting salute from the steamer’s can¬ 
non, we steered for Cape Rosier Light House on the 
Gaspe Shore, and arrived opposite to it the same evening, 
but owing to the unfavorable condition of the wind could, 
not effect a landing, and ran into Gaspe Bay about fifteen 
miles off, for shelter. Here we amused ourselves catching 
cod-fish over the side of the steamer, until the wind abated 
next day, when we returned te Cape Rosier, and this time 
got the supplies ashore. The tower is similar to the others, 
with a first order dioptric fixed white light, the lighting 
apparatus alone costing $18,000. There is a fog cannon, 
but owing to the number of settlers near by, no humane 
establishment is maintained by Government. When the in¬ 
habitants at such points render assistance to shipwrecked 
people they are liberally remunerated for their trouble. I 
did not go ashore, as the time required to supply this light 
bouse was too short. I was much amused at the manner in 
which a horse brought down for the keeper was landed. 
Tiie poor animal was led out of the stall he had been 
closely boxed up in, and could hardly walk, his legs being 
stiff from the eoufiuement. of five days. He was backed up 
as close to the edge of the steamer as possible. A boat 
with six men, four of them at the oars, and two seated in 
the stern, came close to the side of the vessel and when all 
was ready the word was given, and the horse backed off 
into the briny deep. He came up nose foremost, awfully 
astonished at his salt water bath and sucli treacherous 
treatment; how he did snort, and plunge! The two men at 
the stern of the boat caught the halter close to his head, 
when the others rowed with all their might for shore, about 
three quarters of a mile off, which they reached safely 
after dragging the poor horse a considerable distance 
through the water on bis side. He, however, soon recov¬ 
ered, and we saw him quietly led up the embankment, gaz¬ 
ing in apparent wonderment upon his new home. 
On the afternoon of the same day we reached the 
beautiful Basin of Gaspe, where we were received by our 
old friend and agent, Air. Joseph Eden and his son. Air. 
Eden made me acquainted with the resident church of 
England clergyman, the Rev. Mr. Richmond, who before 
ho came to Gaspe, hail been several years a missionary on 
the Labrador coaBt. The information kindly furnished by 
him, coupled with what I had already obtained from Mr. 
Butler, enabled me to form a very fair idea of the amount 
of provisions I would have to distribute amongst the poor 
fishermen, and I began to lay out my plans accordingly, 
We lay wiDd bound in Gaspe Basin until the 28th, most of 
the time amusing ourselves catching lobsters, from along¬ 
side the steamer. For this purpose, an old iron hoop is 
crossed in several directions with rope, so as to form a 
coarse net work, a piece of dry cod-fish is fastened on, and 
a sinker of stone or brick attached; the whole is then let 
down to the bottom of the water by a sufficiently long rope, 
and after a while, steadily pulled up, and one to three lob¬ 
sters are frequently found feeding on the UbIi, which they 
hold fast to till taken off. 
How many pleasant days have I since spent with my 
family in this healthy aud beautiful neighborhood, enter¬ 
tained most hospitably by the whole-souled friends resid¬ 
ing there, taking an occasional trip up one of the three 
splendid salmon rivers, where I have struggled with the 
king of game fishes, and taken hundreds of sea trout. 
Many a snipe, plover, duck, and teal, has fallen to my gun 
as they rose from the marsh at the head of the hay. The 
sailing in the Basin is perfect, and some fine boats are 
owned by the resident doctor and others, who appear to 
vie with each other in making Gaspe Busin one of the 
dearest, spots in the world. I am indebted to Mr. Reynolds 
of Ottawa, and Mr. Curtis of Boston, lessees of the York 
and Dartmouth rivers, for permission to fish either of these 
streams. Messrs. Launds Brothers, Mr. Curtis’ agents, 
having obtained the permission, I went several miles up 
the Dartmouth in a bark canoe, and killed five flue salmon, 
weighing from fifteen to t wenty-three pounds, aud with a 
young nephew, also about 800 sea ’trout, ranging from one 
i.o four pounds each, all in one days fishing. The York 
River at the same time being fished by another party with 
equal success, although very latein the season.' We could 
have killed more salmon but did not wish to do so at such 
an advanced period as the middle of August, 
To one willing to forget city hotel accommodations, 
Gaspe Basin is one of the most delightful spots to rusti¬ 
cate in for a few days I kuow of. There is a good hotel 
kept by Mr. William Baker, where plenty of plain food, 
well cooked, and cheerfully served, with fair accommoda¬ 
tion, can be bad for one dollar aud fifty cents per day. If 
this, with beautiful scenery and the purest mountain and 
sea air, will not satisfy the true lover of Nature, he had 
heller try elsewhere One of the steamers of the Gult 
Ports Line leaves Quebec every Tuesday, and after a rim 
down the magnificunt 81. Lawrence, lands you at Gaspe 
Basin in thirty-six hours. Through the exertions of the 
Horn P. Fortin, Member for the County, and at present 
Speaker of the Legislative Assembly, telegraphic commu¬ 
nication has been established, and lie is iudeavoriug to ex¬ 
tend it to other portions of the Gulf, with every prospect 
of success. On Tuesday, 29th September, we hade fare¬ 
well to our Gaspo friends, who saluted us with three can¬ 
non shots, and dipping of flags, and directed our course for 
the east point of Anticosti. We experienced rough weather 
and a heavy cross sea, the steamer rolling dreadfully, and 
the sea washing over her. Was 1 not sick? Did 1 not 
wish myself home again? However, in due course 1 got 
over it, aud after rounding the point, we found calmer 
water, and reached the, light house at 1 1 J . Al, on the 30th. 
On our way over from Gaspe, while I was hors tie cmnhut 
from seasickness, the steamer stopped at Shallop River to 
land fresh supplies for the provision depot established 
there. At East Point we dropped anchor about one mile 
from shore, aud all possible haste was made to laud the 
supplies, as a change of wind from west to east would 
force us to quit the locality (and seek the open sea or shel¬ 
ter elsewhere. The light house is similar to those 1 have 
already mentioned. 
The Island of Anticosti is 133 miles long and about thirty 
broad. The inhabitants at the lime of this visit (1888) num¬ 
bered in all about sixty souls, consisting of the three light 
house and five depot keepers and their families and assist¬ 
ants, and fishermen, separated tiom each other by long 
distances, hut lias greatly increased since, by the addition 
of some 400 Newfoundlanders induced by the Anticosti 
Company to become settlers. The black bear, otter, black, 
silver, aud red fox, and marten, are the only quadrupeds 
found, aud numbers are trapped during winter. The in¬ 
terior is dotted with lakes, which are the breeding places 
of numerous aquatic birds. Near the light house I shot 
a few snipe and golden plover; both had that fishy taste 
found in birds near salt water, and were very lean. There 
are several shallow rivers on the island abounding with 
salmon and sea trout. A great portion of the island is 
barren and composed of peat beds, and thd whole affords 
scarcely sufficient support for the few animals which in 
habit it. It is estimated to be no where more than 700 
feet high. Yet where soil is found it is rich and capable 
of producing large crops of potatoes, cabbages, turnips, and 
hay. The climate is too severe for other crops. There 
are no harbors for large vessels, and dangerous reefs ex¬ 
tend out a considerable distance all arouud. Direction 
boards have been put up near the beach to assist those 
who have the misfortune to be shipwrecked, in finding the 
provision depots, and frequently the crews of missing ships 
are found at some of these points, whose friends have been 
for months mourning their loss. During the season exten¬ 
sive seal hunting and cod and herring fishing is carried on 
by the people from the Gaspe shore. On the elevated 
parts spruce and birch is found, but none of large growLh. 
At 6 o’clock P. M. we left for the Straits of Belle Isle, 
and at 7 o’clock P. AI. ou the 1st day of October, reached 
Forteau Bay. We had a fine run from Anticosti, aided by 
favorable wind. Numerous sea birds flew away on each 
side as the steamer came plowiug on. We saw ahead 
twenty whales, aud several immense ice bergs. W e anchor¬ 
ed all night at Forteau, which is on the Labrador Shore, 
in the district of Newfoundland. I was desirous of going 
on shore to visit the few fishermen, but warned not to do 
so, on account of the great number of Esquimaux dogs, 
which kopt up a constant howling and barking all night. 
They are called by our sailors the “Labrador Band;” their 
music certainly had no charms to sooth, even the savage 
breast. No oilier animal is safe uneoufiued. Some time 
previous to our visit there was a missionary stationed there 
whose kind friends had sent him down a goat. Upon its 
arrival the men in charge tied it outside while they went 
into the house to announce it. When they came out, it was 
missing, and nothing of it was found but part of its head 
and horns attached-to the rope. The dogs had torn it to 
pieces and were fighting over its bones. 
At daybreak next morning we left for Belle Isle at the 
east end of the straits, but could not approach it, owing to 
the wind being from the west and dashing the waves 
against the rocks at the only place of landing. We then 
steered for Chateau Bay or Temple Harbor, twenty-two 
miles off on the Labrador side. This place derives its 
name from the high cliffs and rocks resembling chateaus 
qr temples in their formation. We entered a very narrow 
passage between enormous rocks about 200 feet out of 
water, and just broad enough to allow the steamer to pass 
through. Such passes of which there are many, are called 
by the fishermen “Tickles,” and well are they so named 
for it is rather a ticklish matter to get through most of 
them. We found ourselves in a beautiful salt water lake 
six miles long and about one mile broad, surrounded on all 
sides by high barren mountains covered with moss, and 
here and there a small clump of short brush wood. Owing 
to the great depth of the water the steamer ran close up to 
the rocks, and yet anchored iu thirty fathoms. Fire 
schooners were here loading with herrings and cod-fish for 
Quebec and Aloutreal. There are twelve fishermen’s huts 
aud a store, or as it is called, a “room” kept by atrader. The 
people are all from the opposite Newfoundland Shore, aud 
come over every Season in June in schooners, meu, 
women, children ,’dogs, aud cats. I had plenty of time to 
visit them. They are strong and healthy, living almost 
entirely upon fish and bread, very Beldom getting meat, or 
vegetables of any kind, especially during the fishing season. 
Their great luxury is molasses, which some of them call 
“long tailed sugar.” They were actively engaged catching 
and curing fish, and the side hills were white with cod fish 
laid out on “flakes" to dry, and barrels of the large fat fall 
catch Labrador herrings were piled up arouud their lints. 
Aly speculative propensity was excited, when I learned that 
they only got about $2,80 per barrel for such fine fish, and 
1 offered to pay them as high as one to two dollars per 
barrel more for some, but they answered that they did not 
dare to sell, as they were indebted to traders for their out¬ 
fit, and must pay them with fish. I told them to pay in 
money, for at the rate I was willing to give, it would go 
much farther to close off their indebtedness, “I cannot, 
sir,” they answered. “The traders have ships to load lor 
foreign countries, and load them with fish, not with money, 
and If I sold you eveu a few barrels, any of my neighbors 
having spite against me, would revenge himself by telling 
the merchant X had done so; he would warn others, and 
next season when I applied for the advance of an outfit, 
they would tell me to go to the person to whom I had sold 
my'fish for it.. We are entirely at their mercy and must 
keep on good terms with them." 
The success of the fishermen here was due to proper or¬ 
ganization, and their facilities foT following the coast in 
suitable vessels, ofien going two to three hundred niileS 
away to make a catch. We were detained iu this bay ten 
days, during which time I made several excursions in the 
steamer’s boat to its head, and shot tour seals, seven ducks 
and curlew, all of which, with the exception of a speci¬ 
men or two which I preserved, were handed over to the 
cook for the table. We ran out, three times to try and 
supply Belle Isle, but were each lime obliged to return anti 
wait for a change of wind Or calm. 
Thu Labrador I’oasl is composed of thousands of Islands, 
hacked by very high mountains, perfectly barren of wood 
—aud covered with moss, among whieli are found some 
berries, one beiDg a small sized crauberry, and very deli¬ 
cate in taste when preserved iu sugar. The only wood 
found as low down as this neighborhood, and for 200 miles 
higher up the strait, is stunted spruce, which is only ob¬ 
tained in the interior along some riiviue where sutlieient 
vegetable matter has been washed down the mountain side 
to form a soil upon which it grows. Among the thou¬ 
sands of islauds can be found well sheltered harbors at 
every hour’s sail, the entrance to the principal ones beings 
marked by a pile of stones built upon the highest or most 
promiuent point, often surmounted with n. chibs. Such a 
beacon is called a ecaupie. Just outside of Chateau Bay, 
is Heuly Harbor, in which were riding at anchor, twelve to 
fifteeu schooners loading for Montreal and Quebec, one of 
which put to sea while I was there, was caught, iu a storm, 
aud became a total wreck. Fortunately all ImndB were 
saved. When the people leave at the end of the season to 
spend the winter at home there is great rejoicing, hurrahs, 
and the report of firearms may be heard in all directions, 
1 can well understaud their delight al leaving such quarters. 
Soon after my visit 1 learned that one of the schooners I 
saw there left with forty to fifty souls on hoard, all joyful 
at the prospects of spending a happy winter after their 
hard fishing season, lil tie imagining mat their fond hopes 
would never be realized; they weie soon overtaken liy a 
storm and every soul perished, not far from their own shore. 
On Sunday, the 11th day of October, I awoke very low- 
spirited, thoroughly tired out with the monotony of the ten 
days’ stay in Chateau Bay. I soon after caught the sound 
of men singing, aud a '“clink, clink, clink.” Aly heart 
bounded with joy. The crew were heaving anchor, and 
lustily singing the Freuoh-Ganadian voyageur’s canoe song 
as an incentive to the work. I was soon among them, 
working with a will. At last the anchor was weighed, and 
the steamer swung mound and headed for the "tickle.” 
When outside, the wind was found light, although yet 
from the west, aud iu a eouple of hours we lay off about 
half a mile from the island, and the boats were dispatched 
with supplies. As usual, I went in the first boat. When 
we approached near the island I found that a landing was 
only to be effected by being hoisted up on a table rock by 
rope tackle. There is-no other way of reaching the top of 
the island, which is about nine miles long, aud inhabited 
only by the light-house keeper and family, consisting of 
his wife, son, and three daughters. The only animals 
known to make the island its. home is the Arctic or white 
fox and Labrador mole. From the high lauding place a 
winding road has been cut out of the rode up to the light¬ 
house, which is several hundred feet above. This road is • 
so sleep that it is a good day’s work fora horse to haul 
up four loads, eaeh not heavier than three barrels of flour. 
Everything used here is brought down from Quebec iu the i 
steamer. "Coals are sent in barrels, the empty barrels Pu¬ 
nishing kindliug wood. The keeper has two houses—one i 
in use, the other some distance off, and kept, iu reserve in 
case the one he lives in should be destroyed by fire. Both 
ate built of brick, and comfortable; the lighting apparatus 
is the same as the one at Gape Rosier, anil of the most 
powerful and costly description. There is also a foe can -1 
non and provision depot, These people really enjoy the 
life, particularly the men. The son, now twenty-live years ] 
of age, although free to do so, has not left the island since - 
eight years, ami the father does uol desire to do so either. 
The mother, with one or two of the daughteis (as they 
grow up), spend an occasional winter in Quebec for the 
purpose of having them attend school. The same was 
formerly done for the son. The life of a light-house keeper 
is monotonous, yet there is about it a simplicity and inde¬ 
pendence which, with great regularity, endears it to some 
characters, while others have gotto mad by dint of con¬ 
stantly contemplating the same scenes, and hearing the 
same roar of the sea. The utmost vigilance is expected of 
him; everything must, he kept in perfect condition and 
scrupulously clean. Ills first order, which must be im¬ 
plicitly obeyed, is to light the lamps every night at sunset, 
and keep them burning bright aud clean till sunrise. 
At two P. AI. we lmti just lime to land the last boat load 
of supplies aud hasten on hoard; the wind was rising, and 
id a few minutes the waves were dashing against the rucks, 
a fog sprung up, and with considerable difficulty we ran. 
through the tickle, andlfouud myself, with a sad heart, onco 
more imprisoned in Chateau Bay, where we were obliged to 
remain, owing to the density of the fog, uutil Tuesday morn¬ 
ing, October 13tl), when the weather cleared up, and we 
reached Amour Point Light house at Forteau, which is the 
last, and similar to those at Anticosti. The fight-houBes 1 
have mentioned cost from $75,080 to $9(1,000 each, includ¬ 
ing out buildings. While the supplies were being landed 
at Amour Point l was handed two letters, addressed to trie 
captain of the Government steamer. One was from the 
commander of the British navy vessel Sphinx, the othel 
from the Rev. Mr. Auger, missionary, praying him to as 
sist the distressed fishermen in the district above Blanc 
Sablon, particularly one large family, named Jones, in 
most destitute circumstances. The writers were not awart 
at that time of my mission, Wehastened to leave Forteau 
and at dark the same evening reached Blanc Sablon Bay 
and east anchor. Here my mission of mercy began, ami 
did not end for many days. 
Concluded next melt. 
Ska Lions CaptorEo.— Air. Henry Paul of Rollinsford 
N. H., on Tuesday of last week, with the assistance o 
several men, captured two sea lions iu a cove not far from 
his house, leading up from Salmon River. The old on. 
was eight feet long, and would weigh about 500 pounds 
aud the young one about 30 pounds. They were lying o. 
the shore a short distance above high water mark, and th 
old one showed fight, and was captured with much ilif 
ficulty. They are now on exhibition in Dover. 
