1849.] Visit to Dewangari. 71 



of burning charcoal was placed, all I suppose emblematic of his being 

 the representative of the Dhurma Rajah. 



I forgot to mention that on my road up I met a messenger with a 

 letter from the Rajah in reply to my missive of the preceding day, 

 announcing my intention of visiting his village, in which he stated that 

 if I halted at the boundary he would come down and see me the fol- 

 lowing day and arrange about my going up. I told his messenger I 

 could not wait so long. He said there was no objection to my proceed- 

 ing at once if I pleased ; so on I went. 



The Rajah opened the conversation by remarking that when one 

 great man came to visit another due notice should be given in order 

 that preparations worthy of the event might be made. However, as I 

 had come to Dewangari in this off-hand manner, he hoped I intended 

 to remain a few days, in which case he would be happy to entertain me. 

 He evidently did not understand the visit, and hardly knew whether he 

 should receive it as a compliment or otherwise. I believe I explained 

 all to his satisfaction, for he ended by repeating his invitation to me to 

 remain in a more cordial and pressing manner, offering to provide every 

 thing for the whole party, and promising if the Dhurma Rajah per- 

 mitted him, to come and see us at Gowhatty. We discussed other 

 matters, but I found on political subjects he would give no opinion 

 without receiving particular instructions from the Dhurma Rajah. The 

 day was now waning and I rose to depart, promising to repeat the visit, 

 if circumstances admitted of my doing so. I have no doubt I com- 

 mitted what was in their eyes a breach of etiquette in going up to 

 Dewangari without having previously a long correspondence on the 

 subject, but had I entered into this the Rajah would in all probability 

 have, in selecting a lucky day for the event, have so put off the period 

 of my visit that I should have been unable to go at all. Descending 

 into the village I found the news of my arrival had collected together 

 all the inhabitants, and a very little encouragement converted them all 

 into most importunate beggars. Throwing a few small coin to some of 

 the women, I was instantly surrounded and half-smoothered by a mass 

 of blooming Bootia beauties, pressing upon me for similar favours. 



I use the word "blooming" advisedly, and not as a mere alliterative 

 redundancy. The women have broad flat Tartar faces, small eyes, large 

 mouths, noses short and low, not on the whole the most pleasing com- 



