362 Journal of a trip through the [April, 



being carried on by this thoroughfare. The village of Isapore is situ- 

 ated in a wooded dell formed by two spurs projecting into the Jaswun 

 Dhoon. From this spot may be seen to the eastward and across the 

 valley, the high ridge of Kotlehr, with the detached forts on its summit; 

 from Isapore to Amb-bagh is about 15 miles, which allowing 7 for the 

 pass, makes the total distance from Hoshyarpoor to the last named 

 village at least 35 miles, whereas by the former route it cannot be more 

 than 22 miles; although my distances are mere guesses, they will not be 

 found very far out, as I have had a good deal of practice to assist me in 

 judging of distances from place to place. My constant habit of noting 

 down the supposed number of miles and the time occupied in going over 

 them has enabled me to calculate with tolerable accuracy the lengths 

 of marches. From the road to Amb-bagh but few villages are visi- 

 ble, from their being generally built on the slopes of the hills on either 

 side of the valley. Within a mile of the garden is a small jungle of 

 dawk (Butea pondosa), which being in full blossom when I passed 

 through it in April last added much to the beauty of the scenery by its 

 crimson flowers. 



5. The third march is to Kulao-ke-hutta, distant about 12 miles. 

 There is but little difference between the Raj poor ghat and the others. 

 It is however more elevated and the slopes of the ravine are better wood- 

 ed and consequently more picturesque than either of the former. The 

 ravine leading up to the summit of the ghat is also much wider, but fo r 

 two or three miles is covered with boulders, which makes it a painful 

 journey for beasts of burden. The descent is sudden and steep, and 

 the road is shockingly stony. About half way stands a handsome 

 gateway on the edge of the khud, and looking down into it. This is 

 the remains of the old fort of Raj poor, which once commanded that 

 pass. Behind the gateway is a considerable village, apparently in a 

 flourishing condition. Kulao-ke-hutta, consisting of a few bunneas' 

 shops, is situated within the angle formed by the junction of two torrent 

 beds descending to the Beas. All around is a dense jungle, which I am 

 told, is full of game. On the several occasions that I have had to en- 

 camp there the surroundiug woods appeared to be alive with jungle 

 fowls which kept up an incessant crowing. 



6. The next march is to Joala Mukhi. At first the road passes over 

 the spur on the left hand (or the northern one) descending afterwards into 



