402 Journal of a trip through the [April* 



51. On the following day, the 26th January 1848, we marched up 

 the Soane khud for about a mile and then turned to the right up ano- 

 ther and very tortuous ravine. This led us to the foot of that remark- 

 able ridge on which Kumleh-gurh stands. The Soane khud is prettily 

 wooded with bamboo, the mango, and the silk cotton tree (Bombax 

 heptaphylla) but the hills generally are very barren, and are covered 

 with coarse grass. The sections exhibited an indurated and calcareous 

 conglomerate interstratified with coarse sandstone, and occasionally 

 lignite in the shape of trees. Kumleh-gurh is built on a long narrow 

 ridge of the same materials running nearly due north and south, and 

 throwing out spurs in various directions. Between the spurs its slopes 

 are very precipitous, and often perpendicular. Its summit is also deeply 

 serrated, and on these somewhat isolated peaks are situated the fortifi- 

 cations, insignificant in themselves, but strong by position. It is ap- 

 proached by good paths from the east and west, which unite within a 

 quarter of a mile of the gateway, and terminate within a hundred feet of 

 the same. This is succeeded by a rude flight of stone steps and a move- 

 able wooden ladder which completes the ascent. The gateway is built 

 in a serrature between two peaks. The entrance is effected through a 

 common door-way leading into a dark winding passage. After this 

 come a few more steps, and then a quadrangle, which would probably 

 hold about 500 men. The apartments are arranged along the sides. 

 Passing through the quadrangle, we came upon an excellent flight of 

 steps which led us to the top of the highest point, on which is a Hindu 

 temple. The view from that is very fine. The Chumba and Sekunder 

 ranges, the palace of Tira and the hill of Asapooree, with the fertile 

 pergunnah of Jeysingpore and the silvery Beas at its feet, form scenery 

 of a most varied and romantic character. On the points adjoining the 

 temple are other small buildings capable of holding a few men each. 

 Some of them however, have been lately pulled down by order of the 

 Mundi Raja, as they entailed too great an expenditure. When Lord 

 Hardinge visited Kumleh-gurh he compared it to Gibraltar, which he 

 must have meant as a mere compliment, for had His Lordship really 

 thought so, he would not have made it over to the Raja of Mundi. The 

 Sheiks evidently considered it an important position and kept a strong 

 garrison there. It labours, however, under the usual disadvantage — a 

 scarcity of water. If I recollect rightly the only water near at hand is 



