482 Journal of a trip to Sikim. [May, 



Journal of a trip to Sikim, in December 1848, with sketch map. By 

 Dr. A. Campbell, Member of the Asiatic Society. 



I had long wished to visit Sikim, but in vain. At last it came about 

 as follows. In September last the Governor General, Lord Dalhousie, 

 jn reply to an application of mine for his authority to procure the per- 

 mission of the Sikim Raja for Dr. Hooker's travels in his territory, di- 

 rected me to address the Raja, and inform him that his Lordship ex- 

 pected, as an earnest of his constant professions of friendship for the 

 British Government, that he would afford Dr. Hooker every facility for 

 the prosecution of his scientific researches in his territory. 



The Raja was addressed by me in suitable terms, but the result w T as 

 in reality a flat refusal ; although it was speciously attempted to be 

 concealed under various pretexts, the chief of which related to the 

 dreaded wrath of the guardian deities of Sikim if their sacred land 

 should be invaded by an English gentleman. 



The whole of Sikim was said to be thus sacred ; the most sacred, 

 and most jealously guarded of all its parts was Kunchinjinga,* and this 

 was the special object of the traveller's research, as I had informed His 

 Highness. 



On the receipt of this letter I expressed to the bearer of it, and to 

 the Raja's Agents with me at Darjeeling, how fully and palpably it dis- 

 played the real unfriendliness that existed at the Raja's Durbar, instead 

 of the kindly feelings the Governor General had relied on, as evidenced 

 in the Raja's correspondence with me, and with my Government. I 

 pointed out how forcibly this view of the matter would strike His 

 Lordship : and if the Raja was desirous of standing well with my 

 Government, I informed them that no means could have been better 

 devised to thwart the intention than the refusal of this simple, but 

 direct request to His Highness. They expressed their entire coincidence 

 in my view of the case, and urgently begged of me not to report the 

 Raja's answer to Government until they could refer to the Durbar, and 

 get fresh orders. This they expected would take 10 days ; and the 

 Agent assured me that the required permission would in all probability 

 be accorded. I waited accordingly for the required time, but to no 

 * Elevation of Kunchinjinga, 28,176 feet. 



