1849.] Journal of a trip to Si/dm. 499 



boils at 209°. Temperature of the river 52°, at 3 and 5, p. m. Of 

 the air in the shade at the same hours 70° and 62°. Thermometer 

 without, black bulb in the sun at 3 p. m. 80°. 



Last night at Lamfoke I had a long visit from my Mehmandar, the 

 Lassoo Kaji. It was all directed on his part to induce me to halt and 

 delay, to give the Dewan time to prepare for my reception on the 

 Teesta ; but I replied to all his solicitude that I should be perfectly 

 content to meet the Dewan in any way and at any place on the road 

 the Durbar that might happen ; I find that the routes I compiled for 

 Hooker are wonderfully correct considering all things.* It appears 

 that there is a lake of some magnitude on the road to Chola, and not 

 far from that pass. Its water runs to the Teesta. There is also a lake 

 near the Natolah Pass, and it is the source of the Natolah river, 

 which forms the upper boundary between Sikim and Bootan. 



At daylight this morning as I was leaving Namfoke I had a visit 

 from the Lassoo Kaji, and the old Lama of Pemiongchi, a very pic- 

 turesque old fellow, with a red mitre-shaped cap, red robe with yellow 

 satin collar, and a long staff in his hand. Another wish to make me 

 halt, although half my things had started, but of course that would 

 not suit me. They then presented me on the part of the Raja with a 

 bull, a large quantity of orauges, rice, turnips, bhanghans, and millet 

 for beer. The oranges were distributed forthwith, and my fellows 

 sucked them all the day. It is the height of the season for this fruit, 

 and it must be very plentiful in this valley. All the people we meet 

 are eating or carrying them ; and they offer me some to eat, as I come 

 along, — at least the Lepchas do. They are fine cheerful people, and 

 well disposed to Europeans. I am improving my colloquial in their 

 language. The Lassoo is of this tribe. He does not speak Hindus- 

 tani or Parbuttia, and is much pleased, amused — at my efforts. The 

 index to peoples' hearts in the east is certainly through their lan- 

 guages. The coolies were cheered as we came along with my promise 

 to slaughter the Raja's bull at the next ground, and it was done accord- 

 ingly. The beast was tame enough after his journey, and made no 

 objections to being tied to a stake ; I put a pistol to his forehead, he 

 came down at once, and then we had my cook, a Muhammedan, to cut 

 his throat with prayers, so that the flesh was good for all hands. 



* See Journal As. Soc. for November 1848, for these routes and this pass, 



3 T 



