1849.] Journal of a trip to Sikim. 507 



I have a letter from the chiefs at the ghat to say that the Raja has 

 written, and wishing me to return, which I do to-morrow according to 

 my promise. I wish they would keep their' s to me in like manner. 



Kedong, 13th. — Last night at Tukbrum at 9 o'clock the sky was 

 lowering heavily, and threatened rain. The Thermometer stood at 54° ; 

 a great change at this elevation in 9 hours. But it had snowed heavily 

 on the peaks to the northwards ; was now bright and clear, and a 

 gentle northerly breeze was blowing. I do not know if the proximity 

 of Tukbrum to the snowy range at all affects the variations of its tem- 

 perature, but the rapid descent of it last night is, I think, unusual. It 

 was with great reluctance that I turned my back upon the snow, and 

 even as I did so I was half irresolute, for yesterday I had encouraged 

 dreams of further delays at the ghat, and of my reaching the snow, 

 before the summons of recal should overtake me, but I could not 

 help it ; it is reported that the Raja has come in person to the river to 

 meet me, and it would not do to keep the sovereignty of Sikim kick- 

 ing his heels for me, in his own dominions. I wish most heartily that he 

 had staid at home, and ordered me to the presence at Tumlong. Be- 

 sides the pleasure of a couple more marches in new places, I might 

 have got to the lakes of Chola, which are the newest of all the new 

 things I have lately heard of. They lie, one on each side of the road 

 near the Pass, and on this side of it, and two day's journey from the 

 Durbar. 



The road to-day seemed rather better than it was yesterday, and 

 constant travelling over the like of it might reconcile you to it, and 

 even lead you to defend it, as a thing you had a property in. This is a 

 very common feeling with people in India about their stations, officers, 

 &c. &c. But it was not a whit the less terrific along the face of Sung- 

 dam. It is a mixed mood of elation and depression to find yourself 

 for an hour together moving on a ledge of rock which is sometimes not 

 more than 6 inches broad ; a rocky wall of 1,000 feet over your head, 

 and below another of 4 or 5,000, with the certain knowledge that 

 a single slip would in a few seconds bring your earthly progress to a close 

 for ever. 



At the Ronglo stream we saw about a dozen large bee-hives on the 

 face of an inaccessible precipice. There was a village near, but the 

 people could not manage to get at them, as there was no tree above 



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